Friday, February 11, 2011


to warm, to cold, to dry, to wet, to what ever... i am getting all crazy about this project.... normally in february its anyway to cold to try longer (15+moves) problems in ticino, especially in chironico (higher up, less sun then cresciano). but since three weeks its unusally warm (up to 15C), DRY and just perfect. so despite not really feeling fit enough (after my december-break) i coud not hesistate and went back on the "fish" to try to make the best of the unusual good conditions. you never know...

wurm-up with the "einfisch/keinfisch", pic by angla wagner
allready on my first session two weeks ago i was able to climb the exit-part ("einisch/keinfisch") literally for wurmup and cooldown. but despite knowing ALL the details i needed three sessions (days) to get the tricky moves of the first part dialed again. and linking the two parts was just out of question at that point. but i then managed to establish on a more safe beta for the first move. i can do that first move now numerous times a day pretty solid (compared to the old "shaky" beta with which it was not unusal to not be able to do the move for hours, despite beeing solid just two days ago - weird i know, but thats it).

but there are some problems with that new beta:

- it involves a small and sharp crimp (pretty painful)
- it makes me colder fingers (squezes all the blood out of my left hand on this first move)
- i have to make an extra move by using that beta and that makes me even more tired then with the old one...

BUT its safer and like that i fail cause of i am tired near the end and i dont have to wait for hours anymore to eventually stick that first move. definatly more motivating with the new beta!

the "old and shaky" beta for the first move on the "einohrfisch", pic byanglea wagner
two days ago i was able to repeat the "einohrfisch" (the first part of the whole line) and nearly climbed into the last move of the whole line again but went down with icy cold fingers... to make some "resistance-training" i went on for the "standing-start" of the "fisch" (starting standing 3moves in on a BIG jug, not climbed yet, in the 8B+ area for itself...). i was kind of surprised to find myself suddenly on the last hard move, i noticed the cold fingers but went for it nevertheless. AND with the numb fingers i dryfired off.....OUTSCH.....

emi going for the move; watch out for the left hand - i have to crimp it and its pretty under pressure on that moment. if you dryfire:
thats the result, and yep there was MORE blood bit later..., but the most important: thumbs up ;)

at least i am getting back in shape, but its still to cold for me. i can't climb (hard) with icy-cold fingers. on the other hand i need good friction; if its to warm the start-move and especially this last hard slaping move are getting so much harder that i will not be able to complete the line. its a SMALL line and everything has to work perfectly together. well thats noting new, thats for everybody the same who is trying to push his/her personal limits, but its still impressive what you can DO if everything fits :)

normally i need arround 5 to 6 climbing-days with enough rests in between to build up my specific resistance for a HARD boulder. that woud mean two/three more climbingdays. but its allready getting colder and the weather is about to change on this weekend. looks like i missed my chance. so i will have to wait for the next weather-window... hopefully i dont have to wait till april - wish me luck for a "warm" early spring - it looks like i really need it for this one...


  1. Good signs!!!! Last time I saw your knuckles like that you did Boogalagga afterwards :-)

  2. hehe, thanks to rember me. but this time i have to climb an even harder boulder to just come to the "knuckle-move" - makes it somehow more complicated... or i just have to be a bit more patient