...was what i felt last week in cresciano ;) after a 5week break in nov/dezember i restarted. cause of the bad/cold weather i did some indoor-bouldering, even a bit of campusing (for the first time ever - have to work bit on my week-spots) and then was again on real rock two weeks ago. it was a SHOCKED: no power!!! i was not abel to hold this shitty-outdoor-holds (not even on "old-regular-warm-ups"). ok, i shoud have known better, its every year the same. but it "tricks" me every year again - CRAZY ;) indoorbouldering does not really train you for the outdoors in the ticino. a great post about that issue can you find
HERE.
as
angela still cant join me (still recovering from her acl-rupture), i have to "steal" pics from some friends ;)
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| emi moosburger going for the second move of "mithril". from this position i have climbed the problem. (pic from moonclimbing.com) |
what ever, after two weeks of punting arround i went on with my "try-your-anti-style" and tried "mitril," a hard 8B in cresciano again. for me its my TOTALLY antistyle: brutal raw-crimp-power over two moves - the rest fits me then way better. even if it is not my style i love to try the moves - its pure bouldering as it best. last year i tried it a bit but i was not even feeling the first move. i coud do the second move once, but was not able to continue. so last week i was VERY HAPPY to have climbed it from the second move in and coming close in doing the first move. i really felt like i was able to bring power to the holds again - GREAT feeling ;)
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paul robinson doing the first move of "mithril". the move i have a real hard time with. but i am getting close...
pic from paul's blog |
that was BIG progression for me, and if the year continues like that - i am super psyched cause that woud mean i will be ready for the
FISCH and
HIGHLANDER ;)
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