Wednesday, June 23, 2010


in the last two super lousy weeks i had just one boulderingday. this day there was again no nice weather anounced, but pretty fresh and STRONG winds. so i packed my stuff and headed up to sustenpass to have a look on the "highlander-project", a proud, unclimbed and hard line. for the first time i tried it allready some 5years ago. and despite trying seriously again every year there was no sucess. i was coming superclose allready two years ago on a easier variation, but then i broke off a part of a hold and it got WAY harder for me. so its a real life-time-project by now... ;)

view from the "highlander-project (wall on the left)" to the approaching rain

i just wanted to have a look on it, normally best time is fall cause summer its way too warm. but this day the conditions were, despite some occasional rainfalls - GREAT. it was 12C and the wind was ROARING like hell, so strong i once had to rest for 1h cause my pads (mondo, metoliusroll) were repetely FLYING pretty far away - SICK!!!. i slowly wurmed up, enjoyed the wind and the cold after the last few warm and humid weeks. i quickly checked out all the moves again, repeated all the sections. everyting went well. just the move with the broken hold still felt ankward and hard.

on the first part, lastyearsession, pic by angela wagner

then i gave it a go. while climbing i was wondering why the moves of the first part all went so well. they never went so well before. the wind? low gravity? may both ;) i came to the crux with the broken hold and i was not even slightly pumped ore tired. i pushed really hard, nearly did the move but just  n e a r l y - F*** it!!! i am pretty sure that i woud have climbed it with the old beta! but instead of celebrating i was sitting in the pads again - but i will come back in fall (summer is way too warm) with nice conditions over a longer period of time and then hopefully win my fight against the highlander. you know: there can be just one ;)

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