Monday, June 7, 2010

a nice cold bottle of beer

in warm and humid air. how does that feel to touch?! well, pretty condensating (dripping WET!!!) - exactly like NBSL was to touch last friday. but i felt strong, tried to dry it up. climbed the stand again for wurm up and nearly sticked the 3rd move (despite complete wet holds) from the sit - but just NEARLY, i kept slipping off that crack... looks like i have BAD timing AGAIN. like in the fish-project: the power and finetunig is here, conditions are gone *arghhhh*...

so NBSL is OFF - i am really not in to play cat and mouse with the weather all the time. but when the wather turns WARM and HUMID there is one problem in magic wood which turns into GREAT conditions: NEVER ENDING STORY

some years ago, first part of  the "never ending story", pic by angla wagner

but NES is pure endurance on juggy slopers, not crimpy shit like nbsl. so totally diffrent style and power again. will see if i get the really specific endurance together. i allready tried it some 10days two years ago, was able to send the first part like 6times in a day, second part for wurmup - but never stuck the first move from the second part on link. i desperatly was "waiting" for some rain to get "better" grip, but it was just pure blue sky for 3weeks. as i got tired of trying and went into my regular summer-brake it promptly started to rain for 2weeks... lets hope i get some more luck in the next two weeks - otherwise there are some great projects in the susten area waiting...


  1. but you know how to change it:


    all the best

  2. noch besser SO , denn zieh ich mir jetzt grad rein und los gehts... ;)