Wednesday, June 2, 2010

+10 degrees on newbaseline

what can they do to you? well they can make ALL the diffrence as i had to (re) learn last week.

part1: desperation

last week i was well rested, good skin. everything perfect. just there was some heat anounced. so i was getting up at 6am, was on the rock at 0830 for wurmup (NOT my climbing time!!!) - but as i had to discover it was allready to late... it was getting 28C in chur (about 24in magic )by noon - and i was desperatly trying to do the 3rd move after the match in the crack (for maybe 6times) but was just not able to do it anymore - just sliding out of the crack - so insted of going to try hard on the send of the 11moves i was not coming over the 3rd one - THATS what 10 degrees warmer can do to you. from top to FLOP.

sticking the 3rd move (which was just impossible last week in the heat) (handy)pic by angie, michele is watching closely

at least i found some major beta improovment for that strange cross-move right after the razor-sharp-crimp righthand. it allways felt strange that move. now it feels quite ok, thats very helpful, cause when i arrive there from the sds i know i can do that move...

part2: running laps

yesterday i was back, my fourth day on this year. it was humid as hell but more than 10degrees colder then last week. the "impossible" 3rd move was totally ok again. changing temps can make real miracles, and that not just in font :) . despite not climbing for a week due to cramped back muscles i climbed three times to the move to the razor crimp (again). once i dryfired off, and twice i had just a bit to much swing with the razor-crimp allready in my hand.

i did the razor-move from the second move in and for cool down i did the standing again. so it looks like i am beginning to build up some crimp-stamina which is so important in this anti-style bouldering for me. i just need 2/3 more days in a row (not just one day every second week) with coold temps, so i can build up enough stamina for this strange moves. then i think i may have a chance to send.

but we are allready approaching summer with big steps... if i am lucky i get these days - if not i will have to wait for fall to bring nice cold crispy sending temps again... it really gets down to low temps on this one 4 me.

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