Saturday, July 3, 2010

no summerbrake yet - instead doing THE move...

...from the sustenproject for the first time on link but went down 3moves (on the last really hard move) away from the top-hold of the second (from three) part of the "highlander-project".

on the move to the right-hand-hold (in the pic above) i went down - "highlander" goes up and left (--> HARD), "ikarus" ends 30cm to the right on a big jug (traumland-end) and "deadalus" will be the topout to ikarus and exit via "schön wie..." just dont talk about that... - everything clear ?! ;)

on the one hand i was happy to get to a new highpoint. on the other hand i am starting to get a bit annoyed by NEARLY climbing so many (personal) hard problems this year. (cause even the "easy" straight top-out(deadalus) will be superhard for me. i am not so sure about the "highlander" anymore. will be SUPER hard).

but mainly it was kind of a brakethrough: first i found (despite trying it allreaday for years) again slightly better beta for the staringtpart. second i really start to understand this strange and hard cruxmove on link - and i climbed so far despite it was way too warm (+20C), with bad grip and all that after climbing allready 4h on and off that problem that day.

so hopefully i will get some windy and under "30-celsius-days" during the next two weeks or then i will definitely take my summer-brake and come back in fall - we will see.

1 comment:

  1. Hey Martin,
    sweet blog! I'm having a great time reading and following your adventures. It's really great to know that you're climbing well. How did Hueco go?