some 3/4weeks ago i was up in magic wood for the first time of the year. it was perfect 12-15C. it was a nice and positive atmosphere with a big group of italien friends (simone,gianluca,michele,gabri and many more) bouldering, joking and laughing all arround nearby. going back to my programm of trying my "anti-style" i retried NEWBASELINE, wonderful line with very weird and strange moves.
i allready tried it last year and just as i made good progress i was shoot down by the heat. i retried the moves and i felt really good, my body was not going back where it used to last year. and all the holds seemed to have grown a little ;) but i still found the first move really hard. due to my fat fingers which just dont fit properly in this tiny crack it never felt really good. so, together with michele we tried some diffrent beta.
he told me he tryed to use a close heel and go right hand further up. allready last year my girlfriend angela told me to try this, but it looked just impossible for me. what a BIG mistake that was. first try this year and i sticked the first move in slomotion, it felt just PERFECT ;) but i went up left hand insted of right hand. unfortunatley for michele and gabri it was not that perfect with the heel for them. thy slipped all the time of the heel while going for the intermediate hold. it looks like your shoe has to fit perfectly there - looks like i had again the perfect heel-hooking shoe with my VENOM from sportiva (what a shame they stopped producing it!!!)
no sponsors, no music, no close-up, no cutting - uncut sequence to show real bouldering and what happens after you do a new move for the first time (after 40sek). a beta-session with friends on newbaseline, magic wood. (sorry for the bad quality. its a handymovie, and it allready was getting dark)
so that was GOOD news, because now i coud also grab the second hold way better what made the second and third move easier. GREAT. i had then one go and ended up there at the razor-sharp crimp. happy with that i went back for the fish in chironico and just returned last week. windy and 12/14C it was great grip again. i managed to fall down three times on the move to the razor-crimp. that was ok, cause i knew that i had first to regain some crimp-power-endurance.
sebastian spauween doing the move to the razor-crimp, pic from his blog