i resisted the temptation to hike up to sustenpass as it was just too dangerous and ticino had great weather as well. so off i was to chironico...
|second session and already twice up at the sloperband of the delusion-part... just a matter of one or two more days... hahahah.... ;)|
it all started so good! on my second session this season on "insanity of grandeur" i made it already up to the big sloper of the "delusion"-part... (pic above) but did let go as i was too scared to go on as i never did the final mantel before... - YES i am a real pussy - but after the last year and two really serious injuries and close to 12months of rehabilitation i just did not wanted to take any chances! i got the rope - and guess what - i did flash the topout.. HAHAHAHA :) next try i made it again up to the big sloperrail but slipped off a hold. so that was a great start and i was very happy that my hamstrings worked very well. they are still sore for a day or two after the session, but it's perfect training for them to get back to full power again.
as i usually need four to five days to adapt and normally one day after another i get stronger on a project i was very positive for the next few days! "normally"... but this time it was not "normally".... the heat arrived (up to 22C... and no cold nights anymore...), i felt tired from work... and it was too dry (NO JOKE!!!)... and at least a dozen more very good excuses why i just sucked ;)
|then suddenly not being able to climb the start sequence anymore...|
Suddenly i was not able to make that super hard start-sequence anymore. every day it got worser instead of better. but i kind of "knew" that scenario. it was the same as two years before... as it was getting warmer i suddenly was not able to do this sequence anymore.
third day i was there at 8am in the morning but it was already 13C (warm!!!). crazy march weather in ticino. it just peeled my skin of my tips.... then after 3hrs - why after 3hrs...... why not earlier....?????!!!!! i made the move but then i slipped off a foothold????? and then again my heel slipped... and some days later i slipped again off a foothold... every time things got worser.... till i just did not do that start at all anymore. if i just could keep that toe hook for that start. 5cm more reach and i would do that sequence every time... - even for warm up (and would it downgrade to "soft" 7B of course.. ;) - like that crazy strong american mutant named Jimmy X who did that mind-blowing stunt of climbing "insanity" (and some more 8B+/C's) in ONE SESSION - may i should get surgery to get that 5cm more reach and climb everything in a day?! but i am quite sure this would end up with me needing specific surgery for every boulder problem i try... - so may i just get my ass off the couch and get stronger... transform the weak pussy into a mutant... i will do that just after that two pieces of chocolate-doublecream-cake, the shiatsu massage and the pedicure... - i promise... ;)
|then get the start for once but slipping off the biggest footholds...|
to make things even better i managed to ripped off a part of the intermediate hold from the startsequnce... but its still there, its still possible nothing changed too much... hopefully it stays.... at least the cold is on its way back... WINTER IS COMING - hopefully the white walkers will hold bit back... ;) to be continued....
|and finally ripping off a part of that super good intermediate hold at the start... but it's still there, did not change anything... still HARD ;)|