a strange night in ticino

despite three rest days i felt pretty tired and could not really feel "power" on the holds... i was not even able to do my regular warmup ("einfisch" to the lip) and the sequences of insanity did feel (way too) hard as well. looks like workdays somehow don't equal full rest days to me. even if i just have a "desk job" as a teacher it's may just too much stress... not enough sleep... but i am a pussy (as we discovered last time) so i stop whining here... -  but did i already mention that it was way more humid then the days before... ;)

exactly the position where i suffered from my total power-break-down and slipped from the right foothold... - one move from the resting-point...

but despite feeling like crap the colder temps and the the micro-beta i remembered for the start sequence finally worked nicely together. bouldering can be quite strange sometimes...

as i suspected i really did move my body in a wrong direction, i was too high and i did not place my hips close enough so i was not able to build up enough tension for my (non existing) toe hook to stay. it still took me some six tries to stick the start which is way too much and that already made me bit tired but i (hope) i have dialed that move again and will we able to repeat it much faster next session.

well after finally making my way trough that start again i suddenly found myself up at the sloperband of delusion and just one move away from the "resting point". but then i suffered from one second to another from a total power-break-down... i lost tension and lost a foothold... but that's ok, i needed just too many tries and power on the start before.

setting up for the big move in the "use-your-delusion-project"

its even steeper then it seems on the pic and the heel hook is just compression - if you loose tension then....

you go down... - but given the fact that i already felt super tired i should def. try again once i am fresh...

before climbing "insanity" to the lip from the third move again for "endurance-training" i went on to try the moves of the super powerful "use-your-delusion-project" - an old project i brushed some years ago (may somebody (dave?) already was on it 10years ago?!) which starts on the left of insanity and shares the same exit. it has BIG body tension moves and some crucial hook's which need to stay - so it will help to be BIG on this one (again). there was some chalck and ticks on it - so looks like someone had tried it recently... james? as he obviously did not send this one in a session it must be 8C or harder.... ;)

i tried it a few times in the years back, came close to the moves but never really did them. i was close on the moves again this time... and given the fact that i felt already super tired after my total power breakdown in insanity i may should try once when i still feel fresh... VENGA :)