"open your mind and understand...." - in J.E.N.S. we trust - follow him to the light... ;)
...sorry could not help to post this... one of my all time favourites! must be a fake, doesn't it???!!!
and today it came even better. i know that my english is pretty messed up and that i do a lot of misspelling myself and whatever, and also i have absolutely nothing against gay's! but i don't know what jens really wanted to tell us about james.....??????
what puzzled me a bit was the: "... i (jens) had to put him against the wall..." ;)) so is this jens here coming out of the closet??? now i am really confused.... - who is coming out of which closet here.... ;)))))
Ahahahah!!! That's fantastic Martin!!! From what I read on his website, Jens is a very very sad man. He's pathetic and he represents, to me, all the worst things of the present climbing.
ReplyDeleteStay strong.
Lo.
i just could not help, i had to post it, its just tooooo funny.... - (but somehow sad as well) to see how hard he tries to get clicks ($$$)..., he trolls as hard as he can, but on the other hand i fear he REALLY thinks that he is "the one" who will safe climbing (but from what?) .... ;)
ReplyDelete8a.nu in it's current form is one of the worst things about bouldering.
ReplyDeleteI wish Jens would do like George Lucas and give it to people who could use it in a proper way and stop ruining / abusing their influence.
Hey Martin! I don't understand why you are just ridiculing Jens and do not give a proper thought about the issue of grading?!? Not that I'm his ghostwriter or that I think grades urgently need to be fixed or homogeneized around the world.
ReplyDeleteBut currently, only climbers who did a problem/route give (at best) a subjective opinion, or (worse) just report the official grade. Nothing wrong with that, but it is also clear that this way, you won't necessarily get the full picture on the true difficulty of a problem/route.
For that, you'd also need to include the experience of people who tried but did not manage to send, maybe even how much effort the successful climbers needed. And you would definitely get a much better proposition of difficulty if the reported grades were independent (i.e. every climber would need to report a grade without knowing what others suggested for it). Of course, not practicable, but theoretically true.
Given a solid data base (i.e. enough observations), where you can see who did or did not do a problem and how quickly/easily that was the case, I think one could well make statements about how solid a grade is. Not that I want Jens to be the grade oracle, or that I think the 8a database could in its current state serve for that. But given accurate data, the idea certainly has something to it.
Cheers, and get well soon!
hi marcel
ReplyDeletethanx for your detailed comment. you have a good point, but this blog was not about grades. it was about jens talking more and more like a self-promoted-religous-leader (...open your mind...) and that he sometimes just does know what he is writing about (in the sense of the language used... "coming out of the closet....")
to your point: there is no such data! but on the other hand that is already "in use". climbers use to talk about routes and grades all the time. not just downgrades ;) and honestly i am really not into the discussion of a plus more or less. useless. best would be to do it like bleau.info : make a "normalverteilung" and you have an idea of the intervall - there is no such thing as an exact point in the grading-world.
cheers martin
ps: nice post about rentability of climbing-gyms...