|dai koyamda; FA of: the story of two worlds - low start.|
here you can see us watching (in pure disbelief, cause that seemed against every rules of gravity) dai koyamadas first ascent of the low-start to "story of two worlds" in cresciano. now its online: watch it but don't bee fooled!!! you can watch dai climb 6A or 8C boulders, most of the time it looks the same: just super smooth, very precise and effortless. so even if it looks "easy" when you see dai climbing here, i can confirm that there is not even one move close to "easy" in this boulder ;)
dai solved the starting-puzzle from the lowest possible startingholds in a very creative way. it may looks unusual, you have to think "outside the box" and then it's obvious when you see it, but you HAVE to SEE it - and you have to be able to climb it!!! this start-sequence and the whole first part are incredible HARD, especially if you are just 1.65m like dai!!! and then you still have to climb "the dagger"...
especially holding that swing is INSANE!!!
and to cut loose the feet in this position and placing the toes on the other side of the dagger is just CRRRRRRAZY - amazing bodytension - when i see stuff like this i feel like i have to go training NOW!!!
biggest respect for this ascent and especially for his motivation and determination to come back after climbing the original problem (from one move in) and then going for an even harder low-down start and even when it was 25C last november or unusually wet, he kept trying and trying, came back and back again - till it was done - WAY TO GO!!!