Thursday, May 31, 2012

getting old(er) and too motivated can cause problems...

in a brief chat i had with andreas schweizer (THE finger-doc in swizzy) he asked me how old i am. i told him and he was like: "ahhh, with 35 stuff like that will happen more often..."(funny guy he is;). if i am lucky my finger is just "overused" what can mean some weeks of rest, if not.... well lets don't even think about that!
last week my finger doubled its size..., hopefully thats not too worse...
but to start at the beginning: i was very close and motivated to complete two amazing and hard boulders before i wanted to head up to sustenpass in the next weeks. 

but then i managed to kill my knee (not too worse) while hooking too hard on the one problem. some days later on the other problem i killed my finger. both injuries occured while overgripping (overhooking...;) and slipping around, because it was so greasy. but i was just too motivated and pressed just harder. my knee is getting better, my finger does not look too good, but is slowly getting better as well. the "funny" thing was, that i did not feel anything, no pain, nothing. just while driving home i recognized my finger was doubling its size...

on that nice compression-boulder ("riot act, 8B+") i killed my knee and it sent me down on the second last move with ice cold fingers (could not feel anything anymore... summertime???!!!)

and one of the crimps in "from shallow waters to riverbed, 8B+" (sds to the famous riverbed) killed my middle-finger, just slipped at the very end, so it nearly was worth it...?! and i don't have to mention that the last week have been some of the best conditions of the year up there in magic wood, do I?!
fighting through the riverbed-part of "from shallow waters"...
nasty crux crimp on the sds to the riverbed (from shallow waters...) may i did crimp just too hard here...
so you see how close victory and total failure can be. instead of finishing two nice and hard boulders in one week, i did none of them and am sitting at home nursing an injured knee and finger.... thats what old lads do, but at least there is the beer we brought home from the frankenjura... ;)


  1. hey martin, that is unbelievable. you are so fit at the moment. arrgh, all the best for a fast recovery!

    but on a sidenote: andreas schweizer might be THE fingerdoctor, but what he said is just his opinion. for me its exactly vice versa. the older i get (40 years now), the less severe finger-injuries i get. and i am unfortunately very experienced here, with about 4 ruptures and at least 6 pullings/strains of finger-ligaments (cruciate ligaments) within 24 years of climbing. not to mention other finger injuries (laceration of the capsule, etc...). within the last 5 years i only had to stop bouldering once or twice for maybe 2 weeks due to finger problems. i get little tweaks here and there more often, but never as severe as when i was younger and unexperienced about what my body can take. and you have an extremely well trained body sensation, otherwise you couldn't climb those killer boulders which are depending a lot on perfect bodyposition etc. :-)

    cheer up!!!

  2. Allez Martin! You got quicker stronger than your tendons as a result of your huge motivation :) Get well soon! You gonna crash all this with ease after the recovery!