Tuesday, May 15, 2012

back home in paradise and in puzzling-mode again

till up to 4m of snow melt at the sustenpass i have to play around somewhere else. 

so i went up to magic wood for the first time this year. it was great to climb and play on that easy and intermediate ones again. the only downturn was that it despite beeing nice weather it was bit greasy and way too warm. but hey, its all about motivation ;) despite the not perfect conditiones i went up to newbaseline to have a look on it again.

but i got my ass kicked up there. it was so greasy in that crack that i barly managed to do the single moves. this boulder is killing me. if conditiones are great i can climb into the last moves nearly every day. if it gets greasy i just fail on every single move. so i went down to check out the moves of the sds to riverbed "from shallow waters...". 

the startingprow. the ticks are normally footholds, i used it as handholds and climbed the prow - but thats SUPER hard... so i had to search for something easier...

i just cant't climb the original beta on that one, too small and bad holds for me (and gabri calls that 7C+ climbing???!!!). but last year i found finally some crazy beta which worked for me, but it was hard as hell, waaaaaaay harder then the "riverbed " itself, (8B+  for just the first part). last week now i quickly had to see that it would take another epic to put this together. so i went on to check for better beta - and the night-puzzling-mode was on again ;)




and finally i solved the puzzle - happy times down there in the magic-night ;)) its about some crazy moves i already tried last year. but this time i found some cruical beta-details and it just worked out fine. its not easy, (feels like around 8A/B) but it worked and hopefully i will be able to reproduce it, its quite tricky - and then its on for the full line - yepaaaaaaaaaa ;))

1 comment:

  1. nice one, 4m of snow on sustenpass, we will have a looong riversurf season :)