Wednesday, May 18, 2011

WTF ?! again and again...

and again, and again.. something went WRONG...., pic by angala wagner
... and i was back for a LAST TRY on the fisch (again). the reason was: 5C in the weatherforecast for the night. thats nearly perfect. the FRICTION was back - i felt 10kg lighter - CRAZY the difference to one week before!!!  everything went perfect on my first go. climbing into the ending i felt strong and i knew; THATS IT and then i slipped from a foothold near the end - WTF ???!!!

the perfect line, the perfect moves , the perfect sloper:  MY favourite (hard) problem: Electroboogie, Avers
i escaped from the heat and went up to magic wood for a few days climbing with friends and doing some easy stuff (as a quick repettion of the the beauties: "electroboogie" and the  "riverbed" - ok not that easy, but very nice... ;) i tried a bit on the sds of the riverbed (from shallow waters...). but i was not able (and i do not like too much) to do the "original" CRIMpER-beta (moroni says 7C+, but hey why i can do the 8B pretty easy and not the 7C+ - so much to grading-logic again...?!)

doing some "easy stuff" after "hard work" in ticino ;) the riverbed, super classic in avers..., pic by angela wagner
but finally i found out some crazy way arround the original beta. after some days of effort i was able to climb it from 2moves in - 2days later it was so warm that i was not even able to do the single start-moves again... WTF???!!!


so off i was escaping the heat again. i went up to sustenpas to check on my life-time-project "highlander" (from which i climbed an easier topout last year; DEADALUS). it also was pretty warm up there at 2000m (16C). i enjoyed the sun, waited till the cold of the night was coming in and started to warmup. i felt good, i recognized that i somehow had more power on the holds then last fall. looks like the "fisch-training" was not too bad at all... ;)

after climbing some easy moves thats where the hard sections start. two moves from here i started last week..., pic by angela wagner
then i went to the "highlander". i wanted to know if i was allready able to make the ankward and hard starting-move of the "reve de faire (~8B)"- part with some of the hard moves in front. so i started 2moves into the hard part - and TOPPED it out  - WTF ???!!!

2 days later we got a snow-storm - so after beeing super dry for the last 6 weeks, the "highlander" will be seeping wet for the next 2weeks... looks like my timing is just SUPER bad this season. and i can climb "everything" from 1-2moves in... but not from the REAL starts - WTF ???!!!

2days after cimbing "highlander" from 2moves in...

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