Tuesday, May 24, 2011


....2 hard moves to go (and a nasty 7A exit on which you can FAIL when you are really tired) from all the way down). I AM getting CLOSER - every day one move... (no presents here as well)

the warm weather has also some nice side-effects like the snow at sustenpass is allready gone again and the "highlander" is just a little bit wet. just the peaks remain in white.

so very, very nice up there at sustenpass. at least till the street was open again..., pic by angela wagner

after climbing "highlander" allready three times from 2 hard moves in i was wondering how it woud feel from the SDS. and its crazy what this 7B in front can do to you. its a similar experience like with the "fisch". from
two moves inn everything felt controlled and solid. and then from the sds the crux suddenly felt HARD, and my tank got really empty short after the first crux and i droped at the beginning of the second crux.

 on the following move i went down last saturday.
one more move and "deadalus" continues straight up and gets easier. "HIGHLANDER" goes left, following the structure you can see and does not get really easy at all! pic by angela wagner
BUT i climbed it to the 3rd last move last week. and on saturday i allready felt stronger and climbed one move fruther, nearly doing the second last move as well. i am clearly buliding up resistance and after just 3sessions i am at a highpoint i needed 10+sessions last fall. and very important: i even remembred a slightly easier (tricky hooker) beta for the second crux. i tried that beta allready some 5years ago for the "reve de faire part" but i was not able to do it on "link" back then cause i missed a cruical toehook to get my heel stay which i have to place overhead (sketchy!).

entering the HARD climbing. pic by angela wagner
 so if i am at wednesday (2morrow!) a little bit stronger again i will climb one move further again and then i have a good chance to fight through the end... but this will be HARD till you have the monster-exit-jug in your hands!!! i remember how tired i was on the "deadalus-exit" - and tired like that there is NO WAY to top out on "highlander"...  but i feel stronger then last fall, hopefully its STRONGER enough...

1 comment:

  1. beast I'm psyched for you in seeing all this progress!!!
    I really like how you warm down on 8b's after trying your projects!!!