Monday, September 28, 2015

surprise surprise

well it really seems there are no candies or carrots stored for me up there...

the weather forecast was great for sunday at sustenpass. sunny and perfect temps. even bit of wind. the snow from earlier in the week had melted. i even waited an extra day to give the seeping crux-holds more time to dry. i had two rest days. i did sleep enough and well. i did eat enough and well. my skin was really good. i did feel strong and everything was ready for the send. considering the great progress over the last few weeks i really had high hopes for that day.

the surprise i got arriving at sustenpass was not what i did hope for: clouds rolled in super fast and after 15minutes this was how it looked like:

and five minutes later like that:

so much to the swizzy-weather-forecast!!! instead of in the sun - sustenpass was in the middle of clouds, no wind, you could feel the water drops in your face; 100% humidity - may bee great for fishing or play chess (indoor) but not so perfect for bouldering. i really start to ask myself what else i have to take to get this moves up there together. and as i did write in an earlier blogpost. i am already wondering what will go wrong next time?! any suggestions???

i first thought to go down to a lower area (schoellenen) or to (sunny) ticino. but i did hope the clouds may would settle lower... and so i stayed. needles to say they did not.

what to do? everybody else went home or to the restaurant. there was just no way to climb anymore. even the pads got plain wet by just lying underneath the boulders. just nico and me were still climbing. and well i just went for it!

i greased around - kept fighting - got bit cold fingers - tried to "shake" the cold out (ridiculous!!!)  - somehow got up to that last hard move - got up my left foot on that foothold for the very first time EVER - took the swing - but at the very last moment the swing did send me down to the pads... NEW HIGHPOINT - bit too cold fingers.... i don't want to think about just 60% humidity instead of 100%....  - later i failed very close on the traumland-undercling-move again. did rest for 3min. climbed it from two moves in. rested 3min. climbed it from two moves in again. THIS IS GETTING TOTALLY RIDICULOUS!!!

HIGHPOINT: got that left foothold for the first time ever... now just grab that hold up left...
but the swing you get when releasing the right foot put me down at the very last moment...

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