Wednesday, October 23, 2013

perfect conditions - epic on full swing

...but i missed it (again). back home from two weeks of nice holidays in the frankenjura and ticino there was "foen-wind" forecasted for sustenpass. that means a "warm" (12C that time) and very dry wind... the snow was gone, i felt strong... everything perfect... as it felt too cold for the "highander" i went to the left to try the "verschärfter base"-project again. it felt WAY better then before... looks like the franken-beer has made me stronger again... ;)

i got the crux-crimp, could take out my heel (crux) - felt solid and strong - but missed a tricky foothold-change - and down i was in the pads. as this footmove is not super hard but easy to f*ck up i started to look for better beta. the result after that 1hr-non-stop-beta-check was: i did found nothing better and i was wasted like hell... that was a bit a shame as just two days later even more crazy "foen-wind" was forecasted... and yep two days later it gripped like hell, never experienced something like that...

but with just one rest day... working during the day... closed road in the evening... consequently hiking up and down... all that made me feel super tired. that was just "GREAT"; perfect conditions and me tired as hell. WTF???!!!

on the hike up... the bad weather from the south lurking over the mountains...

as i felt way too tired for the hasi i just thought i would train bit "fitness" on the highlander. first try i went down at the very end of the traumlandstartmove...  nice warum up 8B that was ... ;)

setting up lights on the "highlander"....
second go i passed that move... felt tired... pressed on... got cold fingers... pressed on... got the ikarus part... even colder fingers... pressed on... went into the highlander-crux... could not feel (as so many times before) the hold anymore... pressed on... dry-fired off setting up for the last move..... BUMMMMMMMMMMMER!!!

at least i went for it..
but at least i went for it.... and considering the odds it was quite a good effort (never ever climbed so far before with just one rest day...). but it was so typical for me up there. every time one piece of the puzzle does not fit. if there are perfect conditions i am not ready (just one rest day, bad skin, not fit enough...) or i slip off. if i feel in perfect shape then conditions are bad, a hold breaks or i injure myself or whatever... i am still waiting for THE PERFECT DAY!!! and it looks like friday or saturday could be THE one... at this time of the year you never know when winter is coming. so i will be up there again - and it will be exactly one year since i injured myself so badly up there. would be perfect timing, wouldn't it?! EPIC in full swing again ;)

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