Thursday, May 31, 2012

getting old(er) and too motivated can cause problems...

in a brief chat i had with andreas schweizer (THE finger-doc in swizzy) he asked me how old i am. i told him and he was like: "ahhh, with 35 stuff like that will happen more often..."(funny guy he is;). if i am lucky my finger is just "overused" what can mean some weeks of rest, if not.... well lets don't even think about that!
last week my finger doubled its size..., hopefully thats not too worse...
but to start at the beginning: i was very close and motivated to complete two amazing and hard boulders before i wanted to head up to sustenpass in the next weeks. 

but then i managed to kill my knee (not too worse) while hooking too hard on the one problem. some days later on the other problem i killed my finger. both injuries occured while overgripping (overhooking...;) and slipping around, because it was so greasy. but i was just too motivated and pressed just harder. my knee is getting better, my finger does not look too good, but is slowly getting better as well. the "funny" thing was, that i did not feel anything, no pain, nothing. just while driving home i recognized my finger was doubling its size...

on that nice compression-boulder ("riot act, 8B+") i killed my knee and it sent me down on the second last move with ice cold fingers (could not feel anything anymore... summertime???!!!)

and one of the crimps in "from shallow waters to riverbed, 8B+" (sds to the famous riverbed) killed my middle-finger, just slipped at the very end, so it nearly was worth it...?! and i don't have to mention that the last week have been some of the best conditions of the year up there in magic wood, do I?!
fighting through the riverbed-part of "from shallow waters"...
nasty crux crimp on the sds to the riverbed (from shallow waters...) may i did crimp just too hard here...
so you see how close victory and total failure can be. instead of finishing two nice and hard boulders in one week, i did none of them and am sitting at home nursing an injured knee and finger.... thats what old lads do, but at least there is the beer we brought home from the frankenjura... ;)

Saturday, May 26, 2012

(updated**) WANTED - let them burn - 600$** reward!!!

**thanx for all the support. the news are spreading and there are coming in some hints as well... keep your eyes open!

**upping the reward to 600$!!! 
i will set out my annual free moon-pad (warrior) including shipping (~300$) to the finder in addition to the 300$ donation to the Elizabethfontaine Primary School near Rocklands SA (which was already supported by chuck fryberger) in order to help really poor kids (who can't afford to travel to swizzy, go bouldering and steal someone elses belongings). so the reward summs up to 600$


this post does not apply to 99.99% of you, but may that 99.99% of you can help me here: 

two weeks ago i wanted to get my pads back home from ticino. i went down to chironico to check again last week. but some very smart-ass-boulderers have won lottery (as they might think) and as they stole 3 pads!!!  

my rope and harness seemed useless to them as they left it where they found it. however i ask myself how smart they have really been: all pads are very old (bad foam) and marked (see pics). the "mondo" has a big hole in the red cover (eaten from mouses, see pic), the belts to carry it around are cut, the "dropzone" is full of mouseshit, is marked and without straps to carry it arround. the "satelite" is marked as well:

-one black diamond mondo-pad
the mondo-pad with the damaged surface, and the cut straps so you can't just carry it around...
 all pads tagged with XXX

-one black diamond dropzone-pad
no carry-system on this one
tagged as well....

-one black diamond-satellite-pad
tagged with XXX as well and with my name (MK) on it as well

i don't mind the loss of the pads (too) much, but i really hate this attitude. we do the same "sport", better same "way of life", enjoy the same rock, the moves, the fun with friends... WHY steeling? is it just pure ignorance or is it the money, or both? i know that pads are expensive because i paid all this pads from my own money for which i had to work for as most of us have to. just because i get some free shirts does not mean i get everything in my (climbing) life for free! i have absolutely nothing against people using my stashed pads (near the place they found it!!!) for bouldering. therefore they are there. but please put them back. and don't argue like "stashed pads are littering". thats not an issue in swizzy. and no, i was not lazy at all. i carried up to 3pads 60min uphill when i was there by train. and i don't want to hear arguments like "stuff that lies around can be picked up and taken home by everybody who feels like that". thats ignorance at its best, and to people who argue like that; i would really like to have a chat with theier parents cause there must have been some issues during childhood...

as i sad, i don't mind the loss of the pads too much. but i can't stand this behaviour and i want to see them BURN for it. i want to see their NAME and FACE on the net, so everybody knows what KIND of person they are!!! so if you see/know somebody with my pads (seen in the pics above), please let me know!

to speed up the process i will set out a reward of 600$* for the names, faces (and pads) - let them burn!!!

please spread this news so we might catch them!!!

if you have any infos please send a mail to

*i will set out my annual free moon-pad (warrior) including shipping (~300$) to the finder as well to the 300$ donation to the Elizabethfontaine Primary School near Rocklands SA (which was already supported by chuck fryberger) in order to help really poor kids (who can't afford to travel to swizzy, go bouldering and steal someone elses belongings). so the reward summs up to 600$

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

back home in paradise and in puzzling-mode again

till up to 4m of snow melt at the sustenpass i have to play around somewhere else. 

so i went up to magic wood for the first time this year. it was great to climb and play on that easy and intermediate ones again. the only downturn was that it despite beeing nice weather it was bit greasy and way too warm. but hey, its all about motivation ;) despite the not perfect conditiones i went up to newbaseline to have a look on it again.

but i got my ass kicked up there. it was so greasy in that crack that i barly managed to do the single moves. this boulder is killing me. if conditiones are great i can climb into the last moves nearly every day. if it gets greasy i just fail on every single move. so i went down to check out the moves of the sds to riverbed "from shallow waters...". 

the startingprow. the ticks are normally footholds, i used it as handholds and climbed the prow - but thats SUPER hard... so i had to search for something easier...

i just cant't climb the original beta on that one, too small and bad holds for me (and gabri calls that 7C+ climbing???!!!). but last year i found finally some crazy beta which worked for me, but it was hard as hell, waaaaaaay harder then the "riverbed " itself, (8B+  for just the first part). last week now i quickly had to see that it would take another epic to put this together. so i went on to check for better beta - and the night-puzzling-mode was on again ;)




and finally i solved the puzzle - happy times down there in the magic-night ;)) its about some crazy moves i already tried last year. but this time i found some cruical beta-details and it just worked out fine. its not easy, (feels like around 8A/B) but it worked and hopefully i will be able to reproduce it, its quite tricky - and then its on for the full line - yepaaaaaaaaaa ;))

Friday, May 11, 2012


after finishing up my chironico epic it was the perfect time to have a little break. so i had a very nice, short 5day trip with angela in our "schlumpf-bus" ;) 

we played around, met friends, had nice food, nice beer, a lot of laughing - just a hell of a great time ;)

we climbed a bit as well, and angela just burned me (again) on this nice, little 7B.... 

despite going HARD for 20minutes i was just not able to do it.... and as i was able to flash boulders up to 8A this february i consequently upgraded it to 8A+...

that was angela's reaction, she was like; "you may just had too much beer, hmmmm ;)))

so i went on to some unfinished business, great 8B/+ compression-stuff (ok that was not that relaxing anymore, but great fun nevertheless). and that somehow worked better then the 7B...???!!! i got close...

but got stopped by 27C heat and finally the rain like two years ago... so i will back again, more beer... ;))