well not one handed (yet) but nearly twice a day... it was 20C+ so not best friction, but still ok, as the night was cold and so was the rock! first try i slipped off the lip (may i missed some friction there?!)
i took a long rest and nicolas worked the moves of "delusion..., 8B" and got a super nice sequence together!
|nicolas looking strong on "delusion of grandeur, 8B"|
he motivated me to give another try, but after such a hard (and longer) boulder i normally can go home. especially there is no way i can climb a super hard start sequence like the fish has one!
to my BIG SURPRISE i made it up to the mantel again. went for it. had contact with my tips, stayed for 2seconds up there...
but went down (again)...
i am getting into mega-shape but this "fisch" escapes EVERY time..., it really looks like i have to do it 2times a day, allez-retour, one-handed....
|discussing beta with nicolas. finding the "missing link" for the mantel? pic by angelawagner.ch|
i tried again hard to find a safer solution to that mantel but found nothing... but then nicola insisted to try a slightly different footposition on the mantel (not even a different foothold, just a different position) and the move worked WAY BETTER!!! CRAZY!!! THIS really could be the "missing-link"... but may it came too late?
|9pm chironico on saturday... :(|
cause on the weekend the WARMTH kicked in, 25C..., no real cooling down anymore in the night=BAD for fisching... nevertheless i made it through the start twice but slipped off in the middle section... but the moves felt super hard in that HEAT, like i was wearing a 20kg weight-vest - that was too hard to link... hopefully i will get another chance on some under 25C... otherwise i managed again for the 3rd season in a row to come SUPER close and NOT send one of my two lifetimeprojects... but may i should be happy about that, cause if i send, what will i do afterwards? playing chess? hanging around at a railway station and pretend to be super cool... ? - we will see.. ;)
|making the best of the heat - having fun with friends... ;)|