Monday, April 2, 2012

one handed..., twice a day..., 25C and game over ?!

well not one handed (yet) but nearly twice a day... it was 20C+ so not best friction, but still ok, as the night was cold and so was the rock! first try i slipped off the lip (may i missed some friction there?!)

i took a long rest and nicolas worked the moves of "delusion..., 8B" and got a super nice sequence together!

nicolas looking strong on "delusion of grandeur, 8B"

he motivated me to give another try, but after such a hard  (and longer) boulder i normally can go home. especially there is no way i can climb a super hard start sequence like the fish has one!

to my BIG SURPRISE i made it up to the mantel again. went for it. had contact with my tips, stayed for 2seconds up there...

but went down (again)...

i am getting into mega-shape but this "fisch" escapes EVERY time..., it really looks like i have to do it 2times a day, allez-retour, one-handed....

discussing beta with nicolas. finding the "missing link" for the mantel? pic by

i tried again hard to find a safer solution to that mantel but found nothing... but then nicola insisted to try a slightly different footposition on the mantel (not even a different foothold, just a different position) and the move worked WAY BETTER!!! CRAZY!!! THIS really could be the "missing-link"... but may it came too late?

cause on the weekend the WARMTH kicked in, 25C..., no real cooling down anymore in the night=BAD for fisching... nevertheless i made it through the start twice but slipped off in the middle section... but the moves felt super hard in that HEAT, like i was wearing a 20kg weight-vest - that was too hard to link... hopefully i will get another chance on some under 25C... otherwise i managed again for the 3rd season in a row to come SUPER close and NOT send one of my two lifetimeprojects... but may i should be happy about that, cause if i send, what will i do afterwards? playing chess? hanging around at a railway station and pretend to be super cool... ? - we will see.. ;)

making the best of the heat - having fun with friends... ;)


  1. Hi Martin,

    gute Überlegung "what will i do afterwards? playing chess? hanging around at a railway station and pretend to be super cool... ?"
    es gab ein berümte Italienische Bergsteiger (Giusto gervasutti) der sagte (fallst du italienish verstehst) «Niente fremiti di gioia. Niente ebbrezza della vittoria. La meta raggiunta è già superata. Direi quasi un senso d’amarezza per il sogno diventato realtà. Credo che sarebbe molto più bello poter desiderare per tutta la vita qualcosa, lottare continuamente per raggiungerla e non ottenerla mai. Ma anche questo non è che un altro episodio. Sceso a valle cercherò subito un'altra meta. Se non esisterà la creerò».

    aber jetz nicht überlegen, das kannst du nach der Begehung tun da kalt wird sowieso nochmals!

    Wünsche viel Erfolg


  2. hallo enzo,

    wie gehts? war deine überschreitung ins verzasca noch gut verlaufen? danke für deinen kommentar, leider ist mein italienisch sehr schlecht und goolge-translater auch nicht so doll, aber vielleicht kannst du mir den spruch mal übersetzten. und den gervasutti kenn ich schon, möchte mal das couloir in chamonix mit dem snowboard abfahren ;)

    gruss, martin