Tuesday, January 17, 2012

scary chironico

SCARRY chironico  - watch out where you mantle... - klick on the pic to get really scared... ;)

After my 4weeks "winter-rest" in december i am back on rock and on my way back to get in shape to send all that projects i was sooooo close to send in 2011.

its funny; there are people doing a 3weeks rest and then climb their hardest stuff. but after a 4weeks rest i felt (and always feel) like shit (related to bouldering hard stuff). no power, no tension, no skin... after 2.5weeks i still feel pretty weak, but i am slowly getting the feeling of "power" back. unfortunately i have to work way too much at the moment and can not climb as much as i liked to, but there will be better days to come!

chironico mid of january:
just some now left on the open/shaded meadows. the lower areas and "paese" are free from snow.

last weekend i was in chironico to get my fingers on rock again. the "paese"-area was nicely in the sun,  no snow, bit wind and not cold at all. it was very quiet and relaxed with just a handful climbers out there. just perfect! jumping from one boulder to another i met fellow "moon-athlete" simon weill from australia and some friends of him and it was great fun to play around on the "souvenir-boulder" together.

later on i decided to get a look at "no mystery" and "schule des lebens". i was told that the left-hand-crux-crimp broke and as far as i know its not climbed again yet. i was greeted by the local goats and it was kind of scary when i wanted to check out the topout as you see in the pic at the beginning ;)

the bad news:  yep, its broken. the good news: it should be still possible. in the pic below you se thomas schmid, strong swizzy-lad going for the crux-move (some days before it broke). the left hand crimp is gone by now and doing the move the same way from the lower left hand hold looks like 8B+++ now...

left hand crimp used on THE move is gone....
pic from schmid-climbing.ch (by fulvio silvestri)
but (as usual) i found a "cheater-beta" involving a nice heel-hook movement and going for the rail with my left hand using a small right-hand-crimp-pinch. first the rail felt just too far away. but as i started to "listen" to my body instead of powering around like a bison, i found a "move-in-the-move" and suddenly i was 20cm higher and way closer on doing the move. its a HARD and tricky move - as i like it best and the following sequence offers some of the smothest harder moves in chironico - really flowing - i can't wait to go back... ;)

these are the moments i like so much in bouldering at my limit. when its not just about stupid pulling but power AND very subtle microbeta to solve a move. with a BIG smile on my face i went home: looks like the mystery will not last too long... ;)


  1. Hey Martin,
    seems like you have tried the same "new" beta for no mistery as we do: http://boulderblock.blogspot.com/2011/12/new-adventures-from-ticino.html (first pic). :)
    CU, Kai

  2. hey kai,

    nice pic! and your fingers are clearly on the hold - so you must have sent it???!!!

    i had my fingers on it as well today - but was not yet able to hold it. have to go fresh next time!

    see ya, martin

    ps: try the lowdown start from the left as well, then the move gets even harder - or may i was just too tired today.

  3. hey,
    regarding your question: no, we didn't broke the hold :). he was already gone when we came there.

    Unfortunately I'm to weak for this crazy new beta. The right arm lock is damn hard.

    It's sad that the left crimp was gone, but that's nature... But the way I see, it's still a rad line.

    Good look for your next Go!

    CU, Kai.

  4. hey kai,

    thanx for the info. i am not soooo sad about the broken hold as i climbed it allready before with that beta ;) but its def. way harder now.

    the "trick" is not to focus on the right-lock, just pull over your leg to the left, push up with your leg and go back to the right when you have the height for the rail...

    and yep, rad little pice of rock ;)

    greez, martin

  5. hej martin, your beta sounds pretty good. i will try it next time.
    cu next time out there ... kai.