|SCARRY chironico - watch out where you mantle... - klick on the pic to get really scared... ;)|
After my 4weeks "winter-rest" in december i am back on rock and on my way back to get in shape to send all that projects i was sooooo close to send in 2011.
its funny; there are people doing a 3weeks rest and then climb their hardest stuff. but after a 4weeks rest i felt (and always feel) like shit (related to bouldering hard stuff). no power, no tension, no skin... after 2.5weeks i still feel pretty weak, but i am slowly getting the feeling of "power" back. unfortunately i have to work way too much at the moment and can not climb as much as i liked to, but there will be better days to come!
|chironico mid of january: |
just some now left on the open/shaded meadows. the lower areas and "paese" are free from snow.
last weekend i was in chironico to get my fingers on rock again. the "paese"-area was nicely in the sun, no snow, bit wind and not cold at all. it was very quiet and relaxed with just a handful climbers out there. just perfect! jumping from one boulder to another i met fellow "moon-athlete" simon weill from australia and some friends of him and it was great fun to play around on the "souvenir-boulder" together.
later on i decided to get a look at "no mystery" and "schule des lebens". i was told that the left-hand-crux-crimp broke and as far as i know its not climbed again yet. i was greeted by the local goats and it was kind of scary when i wanted to check out the topout as you see in the pic at the beginning ;)
the bad news: yep, its broken. the good news: it should be still possible. in the pic below you se thomas schmid, strong swizzy-lad going for the crux-move (some days before it broke). the left hand crimp is gone by now and doing the move the same way from the lower left hand hold looks like 8B+++ now...
|left hand crimp used on THE move is gone....|
pic from schmid-climbing.ch (by fulvio silvestri)
these are the moments i like so much in bouldering at my limit. when its not just about stupid pulling but power AND very subtle microbeta to solve a move. with a BIG smile on my face i went home: looks like the mystery will not last too long... ;)