Sunday, December 4, 2011

the art of "failure"

its OVER at sustenpass, i had a last fantastic battle but lost. spending some 25+ days over 12weeks up there, falling some 30+ times on the last move(s) after climbing an 8B+ boulder each time, spending the best swizzy-fall in the last 160years (no rain over 6weeks in the north) up there - but it was not enough - with just a little luck i could have climbed it 20times... but well i DID NOT ONCE. so failure - like in spring when i was so close on the "fisch" and then later in the year on the "highlander" as well. one year of climbing and no "results"... bummer?!
sustenpass today...
well may in terms of "points", but i don't get paid for them, so i don't need them. and so its nothing about "failure". i had some wonderful moments and good fun with good friends, with my girlfriend, my brother and all alone by myself up there. i had great days and shit days, sun, rain, snow, hail, heat, cold, night-sessions (11pm), early morning sessions (7am), great hope and disappointments as well. i made great physical progress and i feel strong as never before! and i know i have done EVERYTHING (ok, i did not stop eating chocolate ;) to make it happen. but if you really want to explore your limits, "failure" will be way more constant then "success" and it will teach you a lot. its just how it works, otherwise it was not your limit, isn't it?! so i will be back next year, even stronger and then i will end that EPIC and send these projects for warmup ;)

after understanding that it was just too cold for the "highlander" (took me over 6weeks to realise that, call me stupid or overmotivated ;) i went for the "keinschneehäschen"-project" on the left at the "traumlandwall". its so totally my compression-style - i love that moves!!! just the crux-crimp is bit small for 73kg and leaves me with bruises on my tips every time. the bit sad thing was, that it went perfectly like the "highlander" - i came super close but was unable to finish it. despite investing 5days, feeling super fit and beeing my style i still was too weak. the climbing moves remind me at "confessions" or "natural collateral" but they feel harder. so i have another HARD project up there in paradise - i am excited to say at least ;)  

here some pics from the crux-moves of the "keinschneehäschen"-project (8B+ -area ???) which shot me down on the last move(s) as everything this year...

placing the "blind" hook for move 2 - looks like a big hook - its actually shit where i need to place it

getting ready for the BIG move to the SMALL crimp

loosing the 10cm foothold right-feet while going for the half-pad-crimp (don't blow your knee!!!)

placing the BADEST hook - still wondering why my right heel stays sometimes?! 

doubleheelhook - BELIEVE that it will WORK!!!

i even did the MOVE twice on link but lost it while re-placing the feet  

yeppa, GAME OVER.... - but i WILL BE BACK!!!

i just did not wanted to give up at that project as i felt so close, but after fighting over 4hrs with this HARD 5moves my muscles nearly cramped and my skin was totally trashed. so i had to call it a day. i was tired from the walk up and down with too many pads as well.

on my way home i thought it would be perfect timing to check out the few burly moves of "sur le fil, 8B+"  - totally stupid idea considering how tired i felt ;). but to my own surprise i came super close on doing the crux-moves, and that despite feeling and being totally wasted. to make it perfect i also got an idea for a nice right exit of the line as well. i will be BACK with skin and power!


  1. hey Martin!!!
    this is not the art of failure, it's the art of dedication and self belief. not everyone has the mind to always push at their limits. most people prefer to play it safe, to stay within their capabilities and always succeed.
    others prefer to put every single atom of their self into something hard, potentially endless and also completely useless. these people, like you, know that success in not (only) in topping out, but in givig your whole body and mind to something you believe in.
    the aim is the battle itself!!!
    keep the faith, I definitely must come up next summer.

  2. heyo lore, thanx for your comment!
    nice and true words - you can't really estimate success when it just falls from the sky in your hands... ;)

    see ya, martin

    ps: early summer/fall is way nicer (july/august can be SUPER HOT - but if you like to climb from 6am-9am its perfect ;)

  3. Failure is the best teacher you can find :) hope you can get it together next time

  4. well, after 3months going down on the last move (not to count the 2months in spring) - i think i got my lessons ;) yepa, but next time will be in 5months... what should i do the next 5months.... ;))