despite pretty bad weather (as in spring some 50% of the days with rain) dai koyamada and his friend hiro had a pretty productive time in the ticino. they climbed pretty fast through a LOT of classic hard problems. hiro did amongst a lot others "confessions", "einfisch keinfisch" and "great sharkhunt". it was very nice to meet and climb with dai and hiro as they are two very nice and kind persons. as dai is not amongst the tallest (1.65) he has to find very often his own and mostly crazy beta - that process was very inspiring to watch.
|at least it was frozen, so "tricky" was ok even without iceaxes ;) pic from dai's blog|
beside the well published 2nd ascent of "big paw" and a fast ascent of "confessions", dai had some other nice ascents including the second ascent of "natural collateral" (dave grahams collateral without chipped crux-hold. more to come from that one shortly).
|dai on the second ascent of "natural collateral", pic by dai's blog|
and on one of that "wet" days he even went to complete two lines in chironico with two first ascents. he was able to combine the hard start of "blochx addiction" with the (recently broken) "los cursos" to create "JYA V12". and as that went down so well he completed the logical lines on that boulder by starting at "blochx addiction" and exit via "souvenir (climbed by fred in 1988!)" to climb "jyabara V13". well done!
|dai on the "souvenir-part" of his fa of "jyabara", pic by dai's blog|
then he made a rare repetition (3rd ascent?!) of the super fingery and hard dave graham testpiece "electric ant" from the original start. hopefully next time they also will be lucky with the weaher for once too.
|dai sticking the (for his height even more) incredibly fingery and hard starting-move of "electric ant", pic by dai's blog|