Thursday, September 16, 2010

testing my fitness - failure or PROGRESSION ?

i just wanted to test my fitness and NEARLY climbed a life-time-project...

i was up at sustenpass with my borther rolf and we had a great afternoon in the sun, above the foggy landscape. rolf climbed really well, flashing standingstart to classic and super aesthetic "3er-dyno" and sending the sds on his second try - cool!!!

beautiful sustenarea, again and again...  (if you dont count the roaring sound from "organ-donators" (bikers) speeding over the pass all the time)

after the sun was down behind the mountains friction increased and it was time to get to the "traumland"-boulder. last week i had set myself a new target: highlander woud have to wait (to hard), instead i woud first try to exit over "warmduscher", calling it the "icarus/deadalus-project" (still linking two 8A boulders that way). warumup felt great, but according to my "shedule" after my summer-break i needed another week or two to be in acetable shape again. nevertheless i decided i woud just give a "test-burn" from the sds to have a look where my fitness really was.

i climbed super relaxed, friction was great, fingers did not get cold and suddenly i was at the starting-moves of the "traumland"-part - i stuck the first super hard move climbed to my former highpoint - did NOT felt tired - stuck the next hard move - but just with three fingers. for 5 or 6 seconds i tried (nearly freehanging) hard to bring my pinky on the hold - i knew i woud send with my F**** pinky on it - but i did NOT mangage to bring my pinky on the hold and went DOOOOWN... - two moves from the "rescue-jug" - failure. this boulder really has nothing for free for me. but it was BIG progression too. i felt so good, i now KNOW (last week i was still sure, that its just to hard), that i even can CLIMB "highlander" - back in the game i am ;)

thats the position where my "fitness-check" ended; was not able to bring my pinky-finger on the right handhold to do the cross-move left hand to the right, to the top-hold of "traumland". pic by angela wagner 

on my second try from the sds i nearly stuck the hard "traumland"-move again. and to finish, i climbed through all the hard moves from just two moves in... GRRRRRRR, im getting fit again, and its getting clooose - SOOOOOOO 6weeks left for two moves - if i dont get this two moves together, i will BURN my pads ;)

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