Tuesday, September 14, 2010


ahhh soooo coool; finally i can downgrade something... ;)

summary: in 2008 i did the FA of two topouts (a left, and a right one) to the classic "traumland" at susten - perfect lines and very nice to climb!!! now they got the first repeats by local boulderer ronny birchler and better beta was found - what takes the grades down - what is cool, cause like that, more people shoud be able to try and climb this beautiful lines. that also shows that you shoud never let yourself fool from grades: if the line and/or the moves are cool, go for it!!! the boulder may suit your style, you may find better beta, you will never know unless you try it!

drive to susten: up there where the snowfields are, the boulders wait

details for the interested ones:  "warmduscher" takes the finishinghold of "traumland" and climbs slightly to the right and up. this line got the first repeat this starting summer from local boulderer ronny birchler. he had a great summer up there, making fast ascents of some 8A's at susten. he found new beta for the sitdownstart (to which to easiest beta (for me) is no longer possible after a hold broke) which suits him pretty well (i cant do that beta, feels to near everything).

he felt like the topout may not ads tooooo much to the difficulty to "traumland", but really completes the line. so he felt more to 8A then to 8A+.  for me the topout still adds difficulty but after rethinking may not enough for a real "+". may its just my "boulder" endurance that fails there... - but i will not call the boulder "soft". instead to make everybody (except yens) happy i will suggest a slashgrade 8A/+ for "warmduscher" (what also suits the name) - so everybody can take the grade he/she likes ;)

on the FA of "schön wie...", pic by angela wagner

«Schön wie das zufällige Zusammentreffen einer Nähmaschine und eines Regenschirms auf einem Seziertisch»
or shorter just; "schön wie..." is the direct (left) topout to "traumland". i graded this topout 8B cause of a horrible unsave, hard move after the "traumland"-part which took me weeks to complete on link. this spring (while getting ready for the highlanderproject again) i figured out that just 15cm to the left is a way better hold than i used (stupid idiot i was). the move to the new hold is bit harder, but the new hold makes the former crux-move EASY - so the grade has to go down to 8A+.

"schön wie..." got his first repeat yesterday by ronny - strong again after summer-family-holidays. AGAIN he found new beta for the cruxmove (normally i am the one who finds the easiest betas, but now i start to feel like a complete idiot... ;) but he still tinks its a notch harder then "warmduscher" - so we stick here with the "+".  or we go for 6B ;)  what ever, beautiful lines you have to climb when youre up there!!!

finally there was at least one boulder left, on which i had better beta... ;) after showing my "rève de faire"- beta to ronny he quickly climbed the crux-sequence and i am sure if the army-service does not make him to "lame", he will soon make a rare repeat of this amazing fred nicole classic - FUERZA!!!

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