again and again - and a little SEND to brake to routine...

going down on the last moves on "insanity"; too warm, too cold, too wet, too dry, too humid

falling from the move to the top.... next day it should finally go!!!!

back after two rest days... ready to send: perfect temps, perfectly rested, but the mantel soaking wet; cleaning the top for two hours from the moss that soaked the boulder for days - then too tired to make it through the bottom part...

then suddenly not beeing able to climb through the first moves anymore..... what else ;)

and then you can get to the lip and you can rest for minutes (not too good of a rest when you are cold and tired) and desperately try to get any sensation back into your fingers - fail to do so - and go down....

 i brushed it up some years ago, got close to send, got injured and now finally sent ;) at least i managed to send "big-cat"-standstart. Super powerful, great moves, subtle mantle at the end - full package - one of the best of the grade in ticino for sure!!! a bit a shame it's pretty morpho... but then so much more fun to climb if you are not (super) tall.... around 8A for the TALL, 8A+ for the intermediate (me), 8B for the shorties...  - and if i would try the low-start of big-cat for once not just after falling of the end of "insanity" - i think i could have a good go on the full line as well ;)

night sessions - go the extra mile - last moves again...

over 10days chironico looked more or less like that - every square-milimeter of rock was WET (never seen something like this for so long in ticino) - one day we waited all day long for the rock to dry but it didn't.... so at 7pm we went north....

8PM, through the gotthardo to sustenpass; road closed... does not matter, take the walk.... thanks nico for joining in... was a great session... as always... ;)

30th of november, 0:30AM, 2'000m above sea level, SUSTENPASS, 0C, wind.... climbing up to the last move of "highlander-project" - once more. felt strong as never before - but just got this little bit too cold.... crazy... looks like it does not matter if its 15C or 0C.... just freeze off from the last two moves...

back at the car....  was a nice night out at the boulders..... ;)

few days later; chironico finally dry again... second last move on "insanity of grandeur"....

great progress on "big cat"-stand.... but going down at the mantel... too tired after 4hrs of going a muerte at "insanity"....

and well what do you do on a evening at home, 4degrees, rainy....; go stand-up-paddle... thanks for the night-paddle-out anna... what a great experience...  ;)

trick yourself - and why just do nothing is best to climb 9a

great article from dave macleod!!! when you want to achieve something in life - willpower is very crucial - especially when you try to balance a job, a high climbing level and social/family life:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2014/12/changing-architecture.html



on a side note: just about the "cycle/walk" to work: may thats not really "the" thing to do when you want to peak (just) in sport climbing/bouldering (when you are already pretty ok with your weight anyway). how many of the top-climbers-boulderers are cardio-freaks??? lot's of biking for example will give you bigger muscles on your legs which are just for no use in hard climbing. more muscles in your legs is more weight. and this muscles in your leg you really don't need when you pull on a small crimp in a roof. and then recent studies show that many people who do cardio use this as an "excuse to eat more" - and so they eat more and more unhealthy stuff then others (non cardio's) and consequently they are heavier as well.

so the bottom line for climbing will be: avoid anything that makes you gain muscles because thats just more weight and that will take your ass down to the ground. just hang around on the couch all day long (=no muscle gain there), facebook, twitter and instagram will keep your mind busy and just eat green salad with no sauce (or just eat nothing at all). but don't forget to go climbing... you still need that!!! and your 9a route project will never feel easier... ;)