tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26185943418669737902012-01-23T20:56:32.220+01:00martin's blogmartinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.comBlogger1141100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-25313168994273192302012-01-17T17:34:00.001+01:002012-01-17T17:36:37.181+01:00

SCARRY chironico  - watch out where you mantle... - klick on the pic to get really scared... ;) After my 4weeks "winter-rest" in december i am back on rock and on my way back to get in shape to send all that projects i was sooooo close to send in 2011. its funny; there are people doing a 3weeks rest and then climb their hardest stuff. but after a 4weeks rest i felt (and always feel) like shit

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-66549252478446675232012-01-10T19:19:00.002+01:002012-01-17T21:09:15.043+01:00

Get enlightened ;) check out my newest moon-blog-post

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-19468869936283976762011-12-04T00:56:00.016+01:002011-12-21T16:06:56.432+01:00

its OVER at sustenpass, i had a last fantastic battle but lost. spending some 25+ days over 12weeks up there, falling some 30+ times on the last move(s) after climbing an 8B+ boulder each time, spending the best swizzy-fall in the last 160years (no rain over 6weeks in the north) up there - but it was not enough - with just a little luck i could have climbed it 20times... but well i DID NOT ONCE.

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-87411943876214747872011-11-26T22:28:00.003+01:002011-11-28T18:11:15.261+01:00

well, not me - i keep punting, but others are rocking: that GU and DANIEL are rocking is something you can expect ;) nevertheless NICE ONE with "big paw, 8C" at chironico!!! next one to crush was RONNY BIRCHLER, a local climber from brunnen, switzerland with whom i had many nice bouldering-sessions at sustenpass and ticino. this year he he had a very nice run, climbing faster and faster through

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-10305080366546481092011-11-23T11:11:00.003+01:002011-11-28T18:13:34.879+01:00

yesterday the forecast called for milder temps at sustenpass again. so after working in the morning i quickly (2hrs drive, 40min hike) made my way up to sustenpass again. and it was compared to other days quite warm, that was great news! and as i took 3restdays since ticino i felt great and light while warming up for the "highlander". i went for a try but while climbing into the hard part i felt

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-30826236061792743712011-11-19T17:31:00.004+01:002011-11-20T21:40:40.600+01:00

as i needed a break (for this year?!) from the "with-numb-fingers-missing-thelast-move-drama" from sustenpass, i went to ticino to give the "fisch-project" a session to get the moves dialed again. to my big surprise the HARD (~8B) 4-start-moves went down on my first go of the day and i felt surprisingly solid doing them. everything went perfect for once. the (for me) super hard start. this

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-39617337041741084842011-11-18T23:56:00.001+01:002011-11-18T23:58:22.804+01:00

as i first saw pics from dai in his CRAZY project back home i was blown away; WHAT A LINE!!! when i see pics like that i would like to just board a plane and go an try to climb it.  now it looks like dai koyamada climbed his CRAZY project back home - its a real DREAMLINE!!!27crags.com has a nice translation of his blog. thats nice, cause with the google-translation you are totaly lost. pic's

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-74386596599184129322011-11-17T21:22:00.001+01:002011-11-17T21:33:30.693+01:00

... what else - it seems nothing can stop him... ;) this time it was two repetitions of HARD and BEAUTiFUL problems which have been put up by FRED in swizzy. the first repetition of SUR LE FIL, 8B+ (put up some 8years ago).  and an ascent of the amazing DULCIFER, 8B --> check out his blog at www.baboonmaster.com perfect line, perfect problem: DULCIFER, 8B. pic by baboonmaster.com and Sean

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-24024106744319873112011-11-14T22:19:00.002+01:002011-11-15T08:08:23.939+01:00

while the americans are on a impressive take-down-mission in magic wood and chironico (check out "the lowdown-news" and "27crags.com") GU continues to flow through whatever he jumps on. i know its kind of boring. all my recent news are the same: gu sends one (hard) boulder after another and i just fall down every time on the last move of my project. but that just shows how different a bouldering

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-24875037749345747322011-11-13T21:50:00.000+01:002011-11-13T21:50:14.989+01:00

at home it was all grey with fog all over the country, driving up into the mountains the sun was pressing through the grey... and then when you are high enough its all sunny and soooo nice up there in the mountains. it was such a nice day again up there in the mountains, but unfortunately i was unable (again) to take advantage of the nice conditions. i am slowly going CRAZY... my fitness is

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-89453554322171345462011-11-10T16:26:00.008+01:002011-11-10T16:44:47.081+01:00

escaping from the bad weather in ticino, i recently spent some amazing days with "GU"at sustenpass. while i punted around on the "highlander-project" he did not hold back and climbed through nearly all the (hard) classics in just four days!!!   "Gu" enjoying the sun at beautiful sustenpass while topping out "warmduscher, 8A+". pic by myself ;) click for BIG view - that was while the ticino got

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-35002846081749360312011-11-09T23:14:00.000+01:002011-11-09T23:14:57.013+01:00

... more and the "rescue-hold" would have had been mine...  despite cold fingers i went out left (from the position in the pic) but missed "THE HOLD" just by centimeters... after a 20min rest, "gu" and his american friend motivated me for another try. first i did not wanted to, cause every time i tried that i was just too tired for the upper crux. but today the second try was nearly the better

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-80203276773193255992011-11-09T10:15:00.000+01:002011-11-09T10:15:07.809+01:00

my friend Guntram Jörg or just "GU" as we call him is going totally crazy this fall. already during the last two years he did a LOT of 8A's and harder and usually super quick. it was clear that there was still some potential to be unleashed and this fall he just cut loose!  after he spent some days at his homebase and repeated the short and super hard bernd zangerl problem "anam cara, 8C" he

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-31478582805581086052011-11-07T19:07:00.000+01:002011-11-07T19:07:25.762+01:00

... sounds stupid, but it was exactly the reason this time why i went down going for the last hard move!!! first it was planed to go to murgstal. sustenpass had forecasted rain so the plan was to meet "gu" and his girlfriend and try a bit on "entlinge" and a new, very nice compression-line from fred nicole, called "bourgonne". just in the minute before leaving home i checked the webcam from

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-3484001912951283472011-11-03T20:12:00.007+01:002011-11-04T10:59:57.772+01:00

MASTER GRIP, PERFECT POWER as never before, started in the full sun in order to avoid cold fingers.... on the way to susten.... RESULT ----> it even started to feel "easy"... BUT i was going down twice on the last moves with ice cold, totally numb fingers... its clearly not the power anymore, may i should climb with gloves ;) may climbing with gloves would help to avoid cold fingers.... ;

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-7054687125129314732011-11-01T13:18:00.002+01:002011-11-01T17:31:51.500+01:00

the road to sustenpass is closed, you have to walk in 40min. but that also means no disturbing organ-donaters on their bikes anymore, no cars, just the mountains and you ;) the weather, conditions and scenery are truly amazing right now. its just sooooooooo nice up there and in between getting stoned by nature you can climb a little bit as well ;) so back i was at the highlander for another try..

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-59611063754586198732011-10-25T12:00:00.002+02:002011-10-25T12:53:19.859+02:00

most of you will know that just too well: weather today at my free afternoon (yes it IS raining, and snow will start again soon): weather yesterday while working: i am glad and thankful that i have some time during the week for climbing as well (on the other hand i give up a lot of cash for that "free-time"). but with a fixed schedule at school you can't just leave your students because

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-79799447903519018852011-10-20T12:39:00.001+02:002011-10-20T12:40:20.888+02:00

and OFF again... but new (old) significant beta improvement! (ok, may its just psychologically - but thats what this fight seems to be all about since some weeks...) snow again this morning in the highlander-area... looks like climbing twice into the last moves was too much and i was not able to recover enough before snow hit again. this time i was mentally ready but i exploded on the second

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-54622231951827151992011-10-17T21:27:00.000+02:002011-10-17T21:27:42.290+02:00

...i can not describe it any better - SHAME  ON ME!!! i really still don't no what happend?! well the good news is that thanx to a lot of rain and some nice, warm days the snow is nearly gone. and susten is still ON!!! crazy how fast the snow melted! finally temps got down and today was a (nearly) perfect day. angela was up there with me, it was some 10C, sunny and bit windy. perfect friction

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-84452945539358817142011-10-10T10:44:00.002+02:002011-10-10T11:08:51.902+02:00

"fall" in the north???!!! 30min away: fall looks better in the south (but up to 27C at wednesday!!!) well we had also 3 very nice weeks in the north. but it was more summer then fall. and what i feared happend: BAMMM: and WINTER. at least in the very south its good weather (up to 27C!!! at wednesday!!!). thats nice especially as i have two weeks of holidays now. BUT it does not look like

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-78208997999136305822011-10-07T12:49:00.000+02:002011-10-07T12:49:12.142+02:00

i missed my last opportunity at susten and now the snowfalls have started - game over for highlander... sustenarea today, and there will come a LOT more snow down over the weekend ...while i continued punting around on the last moves of the highlander-project for three weeks i had to "re"-learn how important the perfect conditions up there are (for me). one week ago i climbed twice to the last

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-27283492293654497742011-10-03T15:21:00.000+02:002011-10-03T15:21:47.661+02:00

warm-up at the exit-moves of "deadalus",  angela taking pics. pic © ikuko serata i am definitely into "epic mode" again - after going down on the LAST HARD move some days ago, i managed to climb into the two last hard moves TWICE in the same day. i never thought it to be possible for me to climb twice through 8B+ - terrain in the same day. that was great, but i would have had preferred to

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-74046636856265486432011-09-26T22:29:00.005+02:002011-09-27T22:53:05.093+02:00

one week ago: sustenpass dumped with snow sunday: no snow anymore, 14C, bit clouds, sunny, some wind, nice people around, good relaxed atmosphere - PERFECT!!! having a great fun day at sustenpass. do u find dai in this pic? pic © ikuko serata (from dai's blog). then dai koyamada made use of the very nice conditions and grabbed the first repetition of "DEADALUS, 8B+". you should see the

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-91325366124789272942011-09-22T15:28:00.000+02:002011-09-22T15:28:22.090+02:00

from a good friend i got an invitation to the "piatra open", but unfortunately i can't take part as i can't take the necessery days off. thats a pitty as i think its a nice and fun event-concept (bouldering AND climbing). the bouldering/climbing areas are looking very nice as well! bouldering at "sihla" looks NICE!!! pic from the sihla-info-website sihla should be a very fine bouldering area

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-22244715851354824952011-09-21T14:19:00.002+02:002011-09-27T21:52:22.289+02:00

PEFECT weather and forecast for swizzy for the next days. perfect timing as i am getting in shape again after summer-breake. it's exactly what i was in need for the "highlander" - 10days of stable nice weather...  BUT before the nice weather, sustenpass got dumped with snow (like last year) at least its melting fast, but the first week of nice weather is just "useless" (in terms of

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-85867039755404362332011-09-18T21:57:00.003+02:002011-09-27T21:55:32.042+02:00

not just me, also angela after her acl-rupture. we went up to sustenpass to meet with dai koyamada and his partner, later the locals ronny and paul also joined in. the ladies on the warm-up i felt absolutley terrible while wurming up; no body tension, no power  - no nothing... - just tired. but i got inspired by angela who stated after her first touch of rock that it was GREAT friction and a

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-78063330363299578772011-08-07T19:02:00.000+02:002011-08-07T19:02:37.641+02:00

i wrote carlo an email about his "sds" and carlo responded to the "american-sds"(for details follow the link) as i thought its a "cultural-thing". he was used (from home) to just take the (defined) startingholds and not to (in every case) sitdown. its not a BIG thing for me, as carlo is by far strong enough to climb all the problems from sitting - BUT: nevertheless i think its important to stress

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-45395071910543085582011-07-26T22:34:00.000+02:002011-07-26T22:34:24.038+02:00

is it a "cultural-thing"?! the topic came up allready as the first "swizzy-movies" came out some moths ago on vimeo. "le pillier" was downgraded by the "americans", but was started three moves in... and from a standing, not from a sitdownstart --> pillier-movie then i got a mail from my friend sebastian that there was a new american-movie out. i VERY MUCH LIKED the climbing in the movie -

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-31063963396236953202011-07-13T00:32:00.002+02:002011-07-13T14:25:25.624+02:00

the nice conditions from last week are gone - summer is back (30+C) and heavy RAIN. so its time for my summer brake - giving my body and mind a much awaited rest from trying HARD since january... allready psyched for FALL and the COLD. but first i will make the best out of that f*** heat: go SURFING ;) surfing offers some experiences you will never make if you just hang on some small crimps in

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-45263560422453552882011-07-11T13:51:00.000+02:002011-07-11T13:51:08.958+02:00

WAY better conditions then last week (when it was 26C). the holds were NOT dry, but dry enough! i climbed again up to the last crux, did the first hard move, felt SOLID, STRONG and THEN... where i went down... the CRUX-foothold from my newly discovered beta BROKE - and down i was - WTF???!!!  what else will go wrong this year that i will just NOT be able to climb one of my projects...???!!!

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-28178359709700393622011-07-08T14:36:00.002+02:002011-07-08T14:43:12.624+02:00

at 1900m - HOT!!!  during the last month i had a lot of work to do and so not that much time for climbing (1-2 a week). but as the weather was pretty shitty it was not too worse to suffer through. that he forecast was wronger then ever did not help too much as well to keep the psyche high. i got rained out several times at a forecasted NICE day.... and there was the best weather (to watch in

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-64669504333061462342011-06-05T19:14:00.001+02:002011-06-06T11:51:56.941+02:00

not even the first crux worked 2day - from the last move to nothing in 3days??? 11am: nice view to the approaching rain-storm. the wall dried afterwards. the problem is that the holds were seeping from the inside of the bloc, and that was the probem no1!!!  but well, I CAN NOT climb my hardest boulder EVER with wet holds - very saddly NOT... and the weatherforecast looks not as it coud dry

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-73930933771090851702011-06-03T21:19:00.001+02:002011-06-04T15:02:36.073+02:00

and one step back again... despite feeling strong as never before and not beeing tired at all (in the crux) i lost a toe-hook while climbing into the crux (never happend before!!!). on the way up, no good... but conditions were pretty bad as you can see in the pic. AND what was even worser was that there were pretty wet holds. the wet holds were the main problem, the fog was just not so

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-60303832080663445632011-05-31T23:09:00.003+02:002011-05-31T23:57:13.234+02:00

... 0.5 move(s) further - it gets better and better - i slipped offffff the cruxhold - ahhhrghhh - HARD bouldering is soooo much fun - still... ;) one move before the old, fat, lousy boulder-tussi dryfired off the crux-hold... ;) pic by angela wagner f**ed up the first go. it went so well that i "forgot" some cruical micro-beta and missed the first crux. second go i repeated  the "ikarus"-part

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-1312127767499699202011-05-25T23:24:00.000+02:002011-05-25T23:24:24.168+02:00

hahaha, its turning into another EPIC again... every day ONE move further (no not two, that woud be WAY to easy). CRAZY how fast you can go down from 80%power to 0%power - today it took me not even 2seconds... i need one more second and i will do the crux. AND some FRICTION woud make things not as complicated... as the ending is not a walk in the park as well!

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-61987000188699487282011-05-24T13:08:00.003+02:002011-05-24T13:12:52.905+02:00

....2 hard moves to go (and a nasty 7A exit on which you can FAIL when you are really tired) from all the way down). I AM getting CLOSER - every day one move... (no presents here as well) the warm weather has also some nice side-effects like the snow at sustenpass is allready gone again and the "highlander" is just a little bit wet. just the peaks remain in white. so very, very nice up there at

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-32727596982474448162011-05-18T09:52:00.002+02:002011-05-19T08:16:09.842+02:00

and again, and again.. something went WRONG...., pic by angala wagner ... and i was back for a LAST TRY on the fisch (again). the reason was: 5C in the weatherforecast for the night. thats nearly perfect. the FRICTION was back - i felt 10kg lighter - CRAZY the difference to one week before!!!  everything went perfect on my first go. climbing into the ending i felt strong and i knew; THATS IT

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-8164695777124536652011-05-02T16:29:00.000+02:002011-05-02T16:29:02.834+02:00

during the last weeks at the "fisch" i have nearly forgotten what FRICTION means. during the last sessions at the "fisch" it was mainly a fight against loosing the holds cause of the "non-friction". once easy parts got pretty hard and slippery. caracteristically for the last two months the latest "fisch"-session ended near the highpoint cause of a sliding foothold - something that had not happend

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-787525781827814332011-04-26T12:55:00.001+02:002011-04-26T13:03:30.899+02:00

some time ago i asked myself what it woud take to climb into that position as seen in the pic below, getting behind the crux... after going down there allready some 30+times i allready started to think that the "fisch" actually coud be just this little bit too hard, especially in the warm conditions when i am suddenly not able to climb past the 4start-moves anymore. BUT  i GOT to the LIP, and

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-35816618838150305522011-04-12T18:15:00.002+02:002011-04-12T18:55:35.831+02:00

... had to make use of the rests of the powsnow before the heat came in. and it was nice to have a break from hard-core-fishing as well ;) at the end it was not a real restday at all (5hrs-non-stop-hiking-riding). but it was GREAT FUN - have a look at the pics to get an impression - SWIZZY ROCKS!!! ride n1: allways great to have the "first line" ;)  ride n2: from the sunny top down the

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-65587041796019795182011-04-08T13:28:00.004+02:002011-04-08T17:17:59.732+02:00

-06:15 start of a crazy day/night -15:00 home from work checking the weather; 24C in chiro...BAD....taking 2hrs of sleepp. -20:30 chironico, still 17C!!! arriving in chironico, beautiful view, but still WARM... -22:30 start to wurmup in the "centrale-area". it was nice and quiet and a lot of deer around, they did not move too quickly and were somehow courious what the hell i was doing

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-15046962548053327072011-04-03T23:05:00.004+02:002011-04-04T10:35:08.904+02:00

last friday nothing slipped, nothing went wrong - so murphy was right! the only problem were the 18C (still at 7pm) - and i coud not wait longer to go for a real night session. i climbed to the last move again, but i had to figure out i am NOT jerry moffat and FRICTION still does (greatly) matter to me... (learn in this former post (at the end of it) what jerry had to say about friction) the

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-22828410114148231242011-04-01T10:04:00.000+02:002011-04-01T10:04:11.168+02:00

murphy's law: what can go wrong, will go wrong. SO TRUE!!! it looks like the carrot is back: three weeks ago i climbed for the first time into the last hard move from the lay-down-start. since then i feel physically ready to send but i keep falling at the very same last move and/or literally on every other move cause everytime goes "something" wrong, even with 3 or 4 restdays and feeling

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-71970570286554285282011-03-30T18:22:00.003+02:002011-03-30T19:09:28.356+02:00

despite beeing allready super close on the send i have changed some 3weeks ago the start from a sds to a laydownstart. its not a BIG difference, its just one/two more moves that are not super hard. but in the end  (unfortunatley for me) that makes to boulder way harder for me. after talking with several strong people (koyamada, robinson, windisch) they all suggested to start in the most logical

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-42258732528501562492011-03-27T16:45:00.026+02:002011-04-08T14:24:08.049+02:00

EDIT 6.4.2011: just got a message from JERNEJ KRUDER who confirmed to have climbed the sds to the "schmankerl" allredy last year. so most surley and till other notice the GLORY for the FA belongs to jerney - my respect to jernej and ronny who sent both so fast!!! on my way back from another fisch-session (more about that soon) i joined my friend ronny birchler at a crazy little night-session in

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-40907162815849034352011-03-19T19:22:00.004+01:002011-03-19T20:17:50.252+01:00

everything was set up perfectly: - i was well rested (2restdays) -slept well and enough -it was sunny, dry, windy, not too cold -i had enough skin beautiful view over chironico. sunny, warum, windy - seemingly a PERFECT DAY there was NOTHING that seemed to speak against THE send, BUT: since days my mind does not stop spinning arround the terrible things that happen at the moment in japan,

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-71052953289575374502011-03-16T12:09:00.002+01:002011-03-16T12:15:33.757+01:00

you may have seen the "moon" on the side of my blog allready. that means i am officially pimped to a moon(ie) :) MOONCLIMBING is my first real sponsor (after a one-time gear/clothing support in the past by bd). like that i "give up" my years of "independent-underground-homie-blablabla" - but hey; i still buy my shoes and a lot (most) of the other stuff by myself. so it was not a 1'000'000$-

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-31465498339313726332011-03-14T14:45:00.002+01:002011-03-14T21:26:10.798+01:00

i did not (yet) climbed the "fisch". but i was super close and whats better then when you can climb and discuss beta with a friend as addicted (or even more) then yourself about bouldering?! it really was a (nearly) perfect day :) i started at the new lower start what worked ok (but its still so much harder then my former start). and my new beta for the ending seems to work as well as i fell

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-92171700802433011592011-03-08T13:42:00.000+01:002011-03-08T13:42:44.321+01:00

i climbed two more hard moves - that shoud be enough you may think as i was allways talking about ONE more move. correct. BUT the two more hard moves were at the (new) start!!!  (more to that new start in another post) after 4restdays i felt strong, good skin and it was perfect friction. i think i woud have done THE CARROT-MOVE from my (old) sds, but with the new start i went down on it again.

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-46616905492481557892011-03-02T13:10:00.000+01:002011-03-02T13:10:46.530+01:00

the move/sequence i can do literally for wurmp up the move/sequence i can do when i am pretty tired too. the move/sequece that feels possible up to a second before executing it when coming from the lowstart... the move that feels so close and at the same time so far: THE CARROT-MOVE: emi moosburger going for the CARROT-MOVE!!! pic by angela wagner thats WHERE i went down some 15+ times

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-8717571663086211462011-02-28T22:56:00.000+01:002011-02-28T22:56:19.722+01:00

you know that scenario; the carrot is hanging in front of your nose - you come closer and closer and you feel like you just have to grab it. BUT everytime you grab it - the carrot just goes that bit further away you came closer to it.  thats how i feel. pic source thats exactly how i feel at the moment. its the same with every harder boulder i tried during the last time. if it's mithril,

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-59583719622351359302011-02-25T15:22:00.002+01:002011-02-25T15:29:50.775+01:00

it was time to to check out some new rock (well "new" to me). i allways wanted to visti the "oetztal-area" once for bouldering but somehow never made it. last week i had the chance for a short 2day visit and i had GREAT FUN. it was all dry and cold. nice friction! "tumpen"-ambiente, little magic wood ;) pic by: boulderschof feeded with infos from the very kind manuel (aka the boulderschof), i

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-4635448329619983752011-02-22T16:36:00.003+01:002011-02-22T18:03:20.603+01:00

.... i kind of established on my resistance on my 4th day on the "fisch". i climbed twice into the last moves. i was even able to repeat my original start-beta on my first try of the day. its again and again amazing to see how its possible to adapt to strange, hard moves; from impossible to possible in just a few days. BUT also as predicted i just fired of the last moves with toooo gold and

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-15344511700055209802011-02-11T20:22:00.009+01:002011-02-11T20:51:52.867+01:00

to warm, to cold, to dry, to wet, to what ever... i am getting all crazy about this project.... normally in february its anyway to cold to try longer (15+moves) problems in ticino, especially in chironico (higher up, less sun then cresciano). but since three weeks its unusally warm (up to 15C), DRY and just perfect. so despite not really feeling fit enough (after my december-break) i coud not

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-69253721621531136042011-02-08T21:52:00.004+01:002011-02-10T08:33:47.600+01:00

check out the trailer and the first part of this vid from my baboonmaster-friends and watch out for my little part in it: that nice little "kermantis-prow" in valle bavona, nice stuff! the trailer the vid

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-45034645756607312692011-02-04T12:53:00.006+01:002011-02-05T12:07:26.255+01:00

edit: to put it in the right context: it looks like somebody got real pissed about my previous "fire-post"... ...strange things happen these days (in cresciano)… somebody watching and taking pics secretly, then anonymously (not under a real, full name) posting first weird, strange, then aggressive comments on my little blog. then finally (after 8posts!!!) spraying wrong accusations and producing

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-62640394644302237872011-01-31T22:29:00.002+01:002011-01-31T22:44:02.532+01:00

...was what i felt last week in cresciano ;) after a 5week break in nov/dezember i restarted. cause of the bad/cold weather i did some indoor-bouldering, even a bit of campusing (for the first time ever - have to work bit on my week-spots) and then was again on real rock two weeks ago. it was a SHOCKED: no power!!! i was not abel to hold this shitty-outdoor-holds (not even on "

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-82630272172573980302011-01-21T19:34:00.004+01:002011-01-25T13:49:18.444+01:00

after a break of two months i was last week in chironico again. at "la soucoupe" i recognized that all the wood on the muddy-floor has been gone (thanx for that anyway). and that there was a "fireplace" right at the base of a big tree next to the boulder!!! coming home and surfing through the internet i found the video to the "fireplace": a very nice vid but spoiled by the open fire...: http://

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-58319587439256224372011-01-17T11:30:00.004+01:002011-01-19T17:50:45.752+01:00

its kind of "old" news, i climbed that boulder back in 2009 but i just recently got the chance to get some pics from "natural" collateral in chironico. it's the well known dave graham boulder "collateral" BUT without using the chipped-crux-hold. many thanx to angela for the pics and all the best for her recovery, she just had surgery on her knee, acl-rupture :( so here is the story and the pics 

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-77588035643403476822011-01-11T11:09:00.000+01:002011-01-11T11:09:57.242+01:00

it was just too good the last time, and there was a LOT of pow left. this time i teamed up with andreas and martin, who took the pics (click on the pics to make them bigger). it was another PERFECT day ;) andreas WARMING up i LIKE to SPRAY ;) andreas HIKING the ridge, i spotted last time into THE void and yep, i LIKE to go STEEP, not just in bouldering... ;)  the ULTIME line again; left

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-66880993399715198732011-01-04T12:06:00.005+01:002011-01-06T10:25:51.305+01:00

instead of freezing my ass of in the ticino i make use of the cold weather doing what cold weather really is made for: ripping POWDER-SNOW ;) yesterday was one of the best FREERIDING days EVER for me. but see yourself: wurm-up (yes it is a snowboard, its a splitboard. highly recommanded for pow-touring!) the LINE: riding left of sunny top - pretty much straight down ;) the BIG days when you

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-46526492702061557652010-12-23T13:49:00.004+01:002010-12-24T12:41:17.096+01:00

recently found documents show that 8a.nu (JENS) really is in great danger... ;) personal grading*: don't go on with it!!!  *the article about the DANGER of personal grading that disapeard miraculously from the website - why? ;)  (klick to make it bigger)  ---dont go on with personal grading as this kills (JENS and his) grading-system!---  that puzzled me a bit cause jens can not rest to

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-57732857297062163482010-12-18T10:02:00.000+01:002010-12-18T10:02:49.534+01:00

what do you do if the ticio is looking like that: bellinzona, close to cresciano - one day after climbing in the nice sun - dumped with snow - BAD for bouldering... well make the BEST of it ;) one day after enjoying sun and bouldering in cresciano back home: up to 60cm of fresh snow, -16C, rock n roll ;) yes, it was COLD how a real WINTER must be - i love it ;) nice playground in my

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-51687664957020983422010-12-16T23:01:00.001+01:002010-12-16T23:02:51.891+01:00

monday-wednesday it snowed a lot in the northern part, but the ticino in the south was protected by the alps from the bad weather. waiting for the bus at home. no its NOT in the mountains its just some 400m avove sea level... so getting the pads jump into the train - travel for 4hrs to the sun (2hrs by car) shortly before cresciano. it was sunny, but windy too so therefore pretty COLD

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-84559236794636892762010-12-14T23:37:00.000+01:002010-12-14T23:37:07.087+01:00

found that vid today on the bishop-bouldering-blog. not much climbing-action. BUT i liked it a LOT. its beautiful - inspiring - very NICE - makes me wanna climb and be there NOW ;) Bishop Bouldering from Colin Delehanty on Vimeo.

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-8746373378992597322010-12-12T12:11:00.003+01:002010-12-12T16:50:29.648+01:00

some days ago i critized carlo for how he (and team america) produced the little vid called: "the greatest flasher". (depending on the perspective a "not-so-funny-video"). to be fair i have to say that carlo postet a nice comment on that topic on his webpage. i am very glad he was able to show some empathy (others seem not to be able). "....I see how it [the movie] could be interpreted that

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-36744286018300453572010-12-10T10:30:00.001+01:002010-12-10T10:33:25.982+01:00

as you can see on dai's blog and on the thelowdown (and on 8a.nu) dai koyamada was in swizzy again. here some more detailed info: despite pretty bad weather (as in spring some 50% of the days with rain) dai koyamada and his friend hiro had a pretty productive time in the ticino. they climbed pretty fast through a LOT of classic hard problems. hiro did amongst a lot others "confessions", "

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-90834891471164544742010-12-07T18:47:00.003+01:002010-12-12T12:01:06.075+01:00

i have great respect for what carlo and team america climbed in swizzy during the last few weeks (despite bad weather they really rocked!). they also made and published some nice footage (despite dont really getting the concept of sitdownstarts, but thats another story). but now it looks like they really had to spend to much restdays inside. it started a while ago when carlo "defended" his

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-73043636915419540002010-11-21T12:40:00.005+01:002010-12-03T08:30:00.683+01:00

swizzyweather is crazy sometimes. in chironico WHITE OUT  - is this allready the END of the chironico season?! for the last two weeks we had lots of rain what was bad, but SNOW is really BAD - it takes WAY longer to dry up. webcam-view over chironico, 21-11-2010 - that looks BAD!!! BUT there is still some hope: the weather-forecast does look pretty good for next week, hopfully its good enough

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-49451886158281659432010-11-18T14:25:00.000+01:002010-11-18T14:25:21.184+01:00

...just one restday and bad conditions do not fit together tooo wellllllllll for me.during 2days from going down at the last move twice to not beeing able to reproduce the first move anymore. well i did the move after 3hrs of working on it (and nearly climbing the standingstart in between) with a diffrent beta, from which i thought it woud be too hard???!!! bouldering sometimes is totally

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-33883135158726173822010-11-10T19:30:00.000+01:002010-11-10T19:38:57.835+01:00

as its cooling down in the ticino, i was psyched to try those funky moves of the full "fish-project" in chironico again. in spring i climbed the two parts isolated, but was not able to link them yet. and it looks like this is going to be another story of how small changes in BETA can make all the diffrence - and well, climbing "ikarus/deadalus" may was a good "training" too ;)  "emi" going

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-40923773790949294742010-11-07T19:39:00.000+01:002010-11-10T19:38:05.486+01:00

...after flying high with "deadalus" - i  escaped with my girlfriend from the arriving winter to the beautiful sunny fall in the southern swizzypart (ticino). we spent some time hiking, cycling and relaxing. we met some friends we did not see for a while and visited brione for a bit of bouldering too. discussing beta on a brione-intermediate with andrea, the owner of the 1001-gite in cresciano

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-22844059062216174352010-11-05T12:01:00.007+01:002010-11-09T13:09:05.850+01:00

as the lowdown / 27crags.com are reporting; paul (super strong) robinson has climbed "the dagger" in cresciano. congrats to him!!! as he posted he finally found pretty good beta and that it felt like climbing an 8A into an 8A to him. that is somewhat interesting news. i know that i used WAY to hard beta as i climbed "the dagger". may that was kind of "stupid", but i had so much fun climbing "my" 

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-40076525468921962242010-11-04T01:24:00.007+01:002010-11-26T17:12:35.326+01:00

you know these days when you climb with your friends, its not perfect conditions but just nice to be out bouldering. then you head to one of your projects on which you just want to "work" a bit on the moves, getting used to them again, getting strong again. the moves feel still hard but ok, even the sequences work BUT you KNOW you are NOT in THE shape for it yet. unusual quickness; 2short

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-61873413494467314222010-10-31T13:59:00.001+01:002010-10-31T17:44:29.649+01:00

11pm : 3 good looking girls, a bottle of wine and YOU - what do you do? 1. the "obvious thing" 2. the "obvious thing" 3. you go to the sofa to make some new GU-caps ANSWER :)))

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-88597712553389324632010-10-22T22:28:00.003+02:002010-11-04T11:51:21.202+01:00

how coud i forget about the "most" important thing?  does anybody need a grade to describe bouldering like that? well because it was never about a grade. it was about a dream: climbing a line, linking a logical start with a logical ending. despite looking WAY to hard first, the holds where there, so there had to be a way through it. spending hours and hours, days and days in solving an "

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-11787376452434675642010-10-18T18:38:00.000+02:002010-10-18T18:38:27.674+02:00

why 6years?! too stupid, too weak?! well may both ;) as susten is a high-alpine area there is too much snow/wet holds sometimes up to july. then it gets normally too warm (not enough friction on crux holds). late october winter is back; snow, icing cold, closed road... - so not much time to climb HARD up there.  hmmmm, how does that work best?! the answer ocasionally can take some time...

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-12670950125220622762010-10-17T20:37:00.060+02:002010-10-19T19:54:57.119+02:00

... as it was NOT the best conditions, 4C is normally toooo cold for 15+moves (for me)and as i was SUPER CLOSE on failing on the top-out (noooo good if so)... BUT - ... lucky enough I was for once ;)))))))) so over 6years i dreamed of it, now i have done it: IKARUS and the topout to it: DEADALUS in the crux-sequence of IKARUS/DEADALUS (IKARUS ends at the traumland, next hold right) and

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-33872880924961201882010-10-13T17:13:00.001+02:002010-10-13T17:20:13.389+02:00

- yesterday i waited longer and the friction was perfect. - my power was ON - no mistakes, everyting went PERFECT up to the very LAST move  - with 2 fingers on the finishing hold i went DOWN --> so NO, lucky i was NOT!!! i went not down because i was too tired, but i pushed so hard on the secondlast move, that my fingers on the right hand CRAMPED and they just did not fully reOPEN while i was 

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-2719232257818334632010-10-11T22:24:00.000+02:002010-10-11T22:24:37.864+02:00

the new beta worked - i did the move i went down 7times allready - just to go down on the next move - with my tips on the second last hold... but the temps were just toooo high - 17C - on 2000m (CRAZY!!!) - i shoud have waited longer into the evening - i did not - slipped off - with the finishing-jug just in front of my face. if you can hang arround with just a t-shirt at 2000m in the shade -

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-55199092120886939892010-10-07T12:49:00.000+02:002010-10-07T12:49:10.660+02:00

i was wrong; just 11days for the snow to melt - thanks to CRAZY summer (25C) weather ;) so off i was for susten again. due to a meeting i was pretty late (5.50pm) - but with 11C the grip was magic - while wurming up i felt great - compared to summer-time the grip was sooo good - i nearly had the feeling of pulling out some holds ;)  but as i was not up there for 2weeks (the snow), i knew i first

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-85349126277255485392010-10-05T16:13:00.007+02:002010-10-05T21:42:42.574+02:00

went up to magic wood with my brother and met some good old friends in the wood. despite the three days of beeing sick i did not feel too bad. the temps were moderate and there was wind blowing - NICE conditions!!! so i wanted to make use of it and had a look on nbsl. but due to WAY toooo soft skin i punted around on  the second move like a beginner. from there it was ok, but i wanted to try

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-13820297795010864482010-10-02T13:38:00.004+02:002010-10-02T16:39:55.884+02:00

this NICE little cat can do BAD things to you if youre too slow... cat-pics by angela wagner  -if youre not fast enough -  it will CATCH you BADLY and thats the DEEP RESULT as i WAS too slow (well at least not at the tips) my hand after PLAYING a littel bit with the cat... and to clompete the MESS, i must have eaten something "wrong" or i catched kind of a virus:  2days on the toilet does

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-20098392615638336552010-09-27T20:26:00.002+02:002010-09-28T09:09:08.433+02:00

arrived at the susten-area - project number one(s): IKARUS and HIGHLANDER are OFF. sustenarea, yesterday i  just can't believe it, everything went perfect after my summer-breake: in 5weeks i went from fb7A to 8B-area again, and my power endurance built up. temps finally droped from 30C to 20C and after 4days on "ikarus" and "highlander", i climbed allready three times a day (solid) to the

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-41902402061056592572010-09-22T22:59:00.003+02:002010-09-22T23:02:29.042+02:00

chironico, still GREEN and WARM if it rains in the north of swizzy - very often in the south it does not - so chironico this time - nobody else in the wood, may cause it was still WAY tooooo GREEN and still WAY tooooo WARM (23C) - but the forest is starting to change colors - HIGH hopes ;) anyway i re-did some nice classics, searched for shade and wind and then the 101-area is great. there i

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-4611153766839537502010-09-18T14:03:00.002+02:002010-09-18T14:08:01.005+02:00

i surfed a bit on the net and had a backflash from my summer-holidays. thats how it was in august, and thats why you better dont go surfing to france in early august...  early august: FLAT, crowded nonsens... and that was THIS thursday, and thats why you better go surfing to france in fall. but as fall is also the KILLER season for bouldering, watching pictures like this results in a (kind of

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-42886378861715817542010-09-16T00:01:00.000+02:002010-09-18T14:06:07.754+02:00

i just wanted to test my fitness and NEARLY climbed a life-time-project... i was up at sustenpass with my borther rolf and we had a great afternoon in the sun, above the foggy landscape. rolf climbed really well, flashing standingstart to classic and super aesthetic "3er-dyno" and sending the sds on his second try - cool!!! beautiful sustenarea, again and again...  (if you dont count the

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-22452916355144175122010-09-14T10:00:00.000+02:002010-09-17T13:22:38.010+02:00

ahhh soooo coool; finally i can downgrade something... ;) summary: in 2008 i did the FA of two topouts (a left, and a right one) to the classic "traumland" at susten - perfect lines and very nice to climb!!! now they got the first repeats by local boulderer ronny birchler and better beta was found - what takes the grades down - what is cool, cause like that, more people shoud be able to try and

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-8796990116009550242010-09-12T00:12:00.001+02:002010-09-12T00:16:56.646+02:00

can a guy like HIM boulder??? 8C??? sorry but that pic was just tooooo NICE ;) pic by b3bouldering.com yes HE can, even without some big PESEL, NANA, 10.5, BLACK BLABLA, E69 prints on his back/butt...!!! well at least on this pic... ;)

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-21984761011071384332010-09-09T11:08:00.000+02:002010-09-09T11:08:05.698+02:00

Castle Hill New School Classics Vol One from derek thatcher on Vimeo.

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-82111819884349768322010-09-08T11:59:00.000+02:002010-09-08T11:59:06.947+02:00

last week i was up at the susten area to check where i am after my yearly 4.5week summer-break. totally psyched for good temps after having seen the webcams (snow arround) and checking the weatherforecast which said: 8C at 2000m. arriving up there, still snow was arround, everything soaking wet and it was !!! 18C !!! - sooooo WARM - so much to swizzy-weather forecast. nevertheless the "

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-76855846863131864522010-09-02T09:51:00.000+02:002010-09-02T09:52:30.223+02:00

...or what was supposed to be surfing. for everybody who thinks bouldering/climbing is really dependent from conditions (weatherwise) i suggest go surfing during summer in europe once!!! i was well aware that surfing in august in france can be like bouldering in cresciano in august: from 30days, may 1 or 0 will be good in terms of conditions - cause its just not swell season. and you know it

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-19469941651065684042010-09-01T10:33:00.001+02:002010-09-01T10:37:33.316+02:00

webcampic from susten-area 1.9.2010 now the best time of the year for swizzybouldering starts - 2more weeks and i am ready again to CRUSH ;))))

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-83139379960652479262010-07-19T19:19:00.000+02:002010-07-19T19:19:11.117+02:00

therefore i will take my summerbreake right now. get some recovery from a long and hard season in which the weather just took me down three times in a row soooooo close before sending some of my nicest and hardest boulders ever. so hopefully it will be like in the past few years and i will come back in fall just a little bit stronger. and combined with slightly better weather i may will be able

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-36362202402498963112010-07-15T14:23:00.006+02:002010-07-15T16:49:47.931+02:00

"main trail" 10m below "octopussy" - watch down left... close-up:can you believe "that"?! shitting right on a  main trail?! at least there woud be a big hole 10!!!cm left to dispose... but nope, just let it on the trail - nice present thanks!!! so just go on, waste that wood: drop ALL your cigarettes to the soil, also your tape, chalk all the holds with 1m of chalk but NEVER brush a hold, dont

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-81682862648579412772010-07-03T18:14:00.003+02:002010-07-05T13:42:02.522+02:00

...from the sustenproject for the first time on link but went down 3moves (on the last really hard move) away from the top-hold of the second (from three) part of the "highlander-project". on the move to the right-hand-hold (in the pic above) i went down - "highlander" goes up and left (--> HARD), "ikarus" ends 30cm to the right on a big jug (traumland-end) and "deadalus" will be the topout to

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-88383625460165459762010-06-23T10:50:00.005+02:002010-06-23T11:45:54.772+02:00

in the last two super lousy weeks i had just one boulderingday. this day there was again no nice weather anounced, but pretty fresh and STRONG winds. so i packed my stuff and headed up to sustenpass to have a look on the "highlander-project", a proud, unclimbed and hard line. for the first time i tried it allready some 5years ago. and despite trying seriously again every year there was no sucess.

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-24049044733172964752010-06-19T13:40:00.001+02:002010-06-19T13:42:44.252+02:00

thats more for climbers, but may also some boulderers go rope-climbing from time to time and if you go for cleaning highballs WATCH and LEARN what can happen if you use long, open slings with a string (but even without a string that can happen!!!). thats not a "new" problem, but a tragical reminder: deadly tragedy discussion scary movie petzl manual and go if ever possible for THAT 

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-52750071832329474912010-06-16T19:32:00.003+02:002010-06-16T19:37:04.352+02:00

i know, this is a blog about bouldering. but today is a historical day for swizzy-football and there is something to learn about this too: switzerland 1 - 0 spain thats totally CRAZY, EVERYBODY expected them to loose but they did not ;) that just shows that if you REALLY fight and if you really give 150% for what you REALLY want - go 4 it - and you get it!!! thats so true for bouldering too,

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2618594341866973790.post-27344867619883516012010-06-15T18:18:00.005+02:002010-06-17T21:27:49.682+02:00

last week i was calling for a submarine, but it got even worse and the water is still rising as the rain just sporadically stops from coming down in large amounts!!! "never ending story" (above) and "the riverbed" (below) can be climbed as dws-boulders right know - dont wait too long its a rare opportunity. fly in and enjoy totally soaked swizzy bouldering... the forecast (till sunday) is not

martinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06512695239247023065noreply@blogger.com1