Wednesday, January 30, 2013

275days to go - 12weeks post surgery - back on a climbing-wall ;)

my hamstrings are still sore, sometimes more, sometimes less, mostly it's not "pain" just a strange feeling that you "feel" your muscles from the attachment at the but to the knee..., sitting on hard surfaces is not possible (yet), i am not yet aloud to start with jogging and i am still very restricted in what my hamstrings are ok to do. but things still improve (and will improve) every day a little bit.

i am very glad and thankful that i have such a great physio-team!!! they really start to push me and they try absolutely everything to get my muscles work and bring me back on rock again... ;)

one of the fancy machines i am training with ;) its a anti-gravity-tread-mill - it blows air into the ballon, lifts you up and you do not have that much impact on the injured part of your leg anymore. i am learning to run again on this one - alien-technology.. ;)

i am still months away from real bouldering, but its funny how much fun and satisfaction every little improvement can give you after just lying down on a couch for two months, like first time sitting normally again when going out to a movie, first time walking a bit faster then a 110year old, not feeling tired after 20min of walking AND first time on a bouldering-wall again - even without any foot-moves - just standing on a 15cm ledge and grabbing some jugs.... - that was a huge push for motivation ;) its great that i am aloud to start with some kind of very basic system-training on a system-climing-wall (just some very basic two-foot-moves)! i started with some really hard core-workout as well... things start to get WAY better and it feels great to feel the body again!!!

i know i(t) look stupid - but climbing at 8am is NOT my game...;)  but its great they have this little wall in the physio-gym so we can check (real time) for the kind of moves that are ok and what is still too much for my hamstrings.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

288days to go - looking back on my best and my worst climbing year ever...

february: short 2weeks escape from the cold an snowy swizzy to....
THE perfect climbing spot in winter: hueco!
having a great time with great people; alex pumping "8A+ butter" without kneepad
LOT of rad climbing and a personal highlight with a flash of "power of landjaeger 8A"
(i usually never flash anything... ;)

last day flapper on the send-go for a martini...; may i had just "too many martinis" ;)

march: back home in swizzy got in really decent shape and was able to climb some nice lines; like this one!!!

then i spent weeks on falling on the very last move of the "fisch-project"

still having a great time with nice people; dai showing footage of his FA ascent of "tsotw low" - pure PASSION!!!

end of april; finally i got MY day; after 3years i was able to do the FA of "der mit dem fels tanz, 8C". a personal epic about transforming the impossible into reality. my hardest and best boulder EVER ;)

before it was getting too warm, i was getting so close on what in fall became "insanity of grandeur, 8C" - but getting close is not getting it done... - what a LINE!!!
at the end of the season 3pads of mine (stashed in chironico) were stolen - BUMMER!!!
there is still a 600$ reward!!!

may: i wanted to check for the "highlander-project" at susten. but the area was still in DEEP snow...

so we went to magic wood for some good food and bouldering ;)
where i managed to kill my finger while getting close on "from shallow waters to riverbed, 8B+"

in july my finger was slowly getting better and i was on to a very "special" trip to the infamous rocklands, sa

back home i was on two short but nice trips to where the best beer comes from: "frankenjura" ;)
and managed to fail once again so very close on one of the best compression-boulders ever : "riot act, 8B+"

late october finally brought sending-temps to sustenpass where i managed to do a super nice FA of "kein schneehäschen 8B/+"

and then after 8years of trying back and forth the "highlander-project" at sustenpass i finally had that one try where i climbed into the crux with power left and no frozen fingers - going for the last moves i KNEW i would climb it - well my hamstrings had other plans....
instead of toping out into glory i went down to the pads with a complete avulsion of my hamstrings, after surgery i spent the last 8weeks of the year lying around in bed an walking on crutches.

it was a crazy year - the best and worst can be so close - but 2013 started great, i am able to walk again and i will be back on (easy) rock in summer - good perspectives are everything ;)