i first played around a bit on "pure addiction" but was unable to hold on the slopy pinch with my finger taped. so i hiked over the hill to "no mystery" to which i came close to do the "FA" (after a broken hold) before i left for hueco.
|back in 2005, dave graham and simon wandeler watching me trying THE move on "no mystery" (already opting for the beta with left hand)|
the crux is not to get up there, thats easy. but its hard to hold on - very delicate move - I like ;)
i gave it some nice burns and was hitting the rail every time but was not able to hold on. its "easy" to get up there and to hit to hold, (i managed that on my first visit, first try) but was unable to hold on - till last week. i already felt bit tired and wanted to leave and gave it just one last burn. somehow i managed to grab the crimp with perfect timing, but with just 3finger and to my big surprise i somehow was still on the wall.
|sticking THE move|
|"safe" beta for the last moves - a heel-hook - what else ;)|
i quickly looked for the low-left-start as well. when you climb into the big crux-move from there you don't get the holds for the big move too well and the body is very low. the result is that the BIG move is a LOT harder, but its possible and thats just GREAT - i will be back... ;)