Tuesday, July 26, 2011

american sitdownstarts?!

is it a "cultural-thing"?!

the topic came up allready as the first "swizzy-movies" came out some moths ago on vimeo. "le pillier" was downgraded by the "americans", but was started three moves in... and from a standing, not from a sitdownstart --> pillier-movie

then i got a mail from my friend sebastian that there was a new american-movie out. i VERY MUCH LIKED the climbing in the movie - really NICE!!! BUT many "SIT DOWN STARTS" were just standingstarts...

sebastian and joost allready posted about that topic.

i dont really understand it. carlo is by FAR strong enough to climb all that boulders from sitting. may that really was some "cultural missunderstanding"?! i will write him a mail so he may can give some explanations...

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

SURFING

the nice conditions from last week are gone - summer is back (30+C) and heavy RAIN. so its time for my summer brake - giving my body and mind a much awaited rest from trying HARD since january... allready psyched for FALL and the COLD. but first i will make the best out of that f*** heat: go SURFING ;)

surfing offers some experiences you will never make if you just hang on some small crimps in a dark obscure cave... ;)

Monday, July 11, 2011

how much EPIC is enough?!

WAY better conditions then last week (when it was 26C). the holds were NOT dry, but dry enough!




i climbed again up to the last crux, did the first hard move, felt SOLID, STRONG and THEN...

where i went down...

the CRUX-foothold from my newly discovered beta BROKE - and down i was - WTF???!!! 

what else will go wrong this year that i will just NOT be able to climb one of my projects...???!!!



whats left from the foothold.... the old beta is still possible, but its harder... and i am really not into HARDER at the moment... for me it was HARD enough!
as the "cheating-beta" is no longer possible it looks like i have to get REAL strong for once... ;)

Friday, July 8, 2011

on and OFF...

at 1900m - HOT!!! 
during the last month i had a lot of work to do and so not that much time for climbing (1-2 a week). but as the weather was pretty shitty it was not too worse to suffer through. that he forecast was wronger then ever did not help too much as well to keep the psyche high. i got rained out several times at a forecasted NICE day.... and there was the best weather (to watch in the webcam) when rain was forcasted..., then the heat came... 25.5C at 1900m is HOT...

a forecasted NICE, SUNNY DAY!!!
the frequent RAIN was a problem because like that HIGHLANDER never stopped SEEPING... so i went to magic wood once, cause that kind of weather serves best conditions for the "neverendingstory". unfortunately my right knee is still too sore (from the hard heelhooks at the "fisch") for the intense heelhooking you need there...

aluminium works fine - even if the friction is not that good anymore (in a  45 steep wall). but better then grabbing a wet hold...

the slot at the left (also in the 45steepness) was not once dry during the last 5weeks... 

FINALLY it got sunny, drier and colder again. it was great to feel the cold and the grip again. instantly i felt fresh and very awake - it was great to escape the daily HEAT (30+C) in the city!!! also my girlfriend angela joined me for the first time since her acl-surgery (last november) and she had her first outdoorboulders done again - GREAT effort! having her up there climbing was great motivation and despite beeing bit out of shape i got nearly through the crux - but dryfired off at the end! it was SOOOOO windy (pads where blown away again and again...) it was just toooo DRY (i did not even used chalck that day...., but kept my tips wet!!!) - CRAZY MOUNTAINs!!! its getting time for the summer-breake...

its soooo nice, when its nice... ;)