is it a "cultural-thing"?!
the topic came up allready as the first "swizzy-movies" came out some moths ago on vimeo. "le pillier" was downgraded by the "americans", but was started three moves in... and from a standing, not from a sitdownstart --> pillier-movie
then i got a mail from my friend sebastian that there was a new american-movie out. i VERY MUCH LIKED the climbing in the movie - really NICE!!! BUT many "SIT DOWN STARTS" were just standingstarts...
sebastian and joost allready posted about that topic.
i dont really understand it. carlo is by FAR strong enough to climb all that boulders from sitting. may that really was some "cultural missunderstanding"?! i will write him a mail so he may can give some explanations...
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
the nice conditions from last week are gone - summer is back (30+C) and heavy RAIN. so its time for my summer brake - giving my body and mind a much awaited rest from trying HARD since january... allready psyched for FALL and the COLD. but first i will make the best out of that f*** heat: go SURFING ;)
|surfing offers some experiences you will never make if you just hang on some small crimps in a dark obscure cave... ;)|
Monday, July 11, 2011
WAY better conditions then last week (when it was 26C). the holds were NOT dry, but dry enough!
climbed again up to the last crux, did the first hard move, felt SOLID, STRONG and THEN...
|where i went down...|
the CRUX-foothold from my newly discovered beta BROKE - and down i was - WTF???!!!
what else will go wrong this year that i will just NOT be able to climb one of my projects...???!!!
whats left from the foothold.... the old beta is still possible, but its harder... and i am really not into HARDER at the moment... for me it was HARD enough!
as the "cheating-beta" is no longer possible it looks like i have to get REAL strong for once... ;)
Friday, July 8, 2011
|a forecasted NICE, SUNNY DAY!!!|
|aluminium works fine - even if the friction is not that good anymore (in a 45 steep wall). but better then grabbing a wet hold...|
|the slot at the left (also in the 45steepness) was not once dry during the last 5weeks...|
FINALLY it got sunny, drier and colder again. it was great to feel the cold and the grip again. instantly i felt fresh and very awake - it was great to escape the daily HEAT (30+C) in the city!!! also my girlfriend angela joined me for the first time since her acl-surgery (last november) and she had her first outdoorboulders done again - GREAT effort! having her up there climbing was great motivation and despite beeing bit out of shape i got nearly through the crux - but dryfired off at the end! it was SOOOOO windy (pads where blown away again and again...) it was just toooo DRY (i did not even used chalck that day...., but kept my tips wet!!!) - CRAZY MOUNTAINs!!! its getting time for the summer-breake...
|its soooo nice, when its nice... ;)|